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| TimmyA |
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As I said it depends what you want to do...
The dash loom will not be plug and play into the dash... Read back through here to when i did the dash loom and you will see... If you run the dash loom it will then be easier to fit the full car looms in... If you run the dash loom you will run the AU smartshield BEM and coded key barrel and wont need a J3... If you don't run the AU smartshield BEM and coded barrel then you will need a J3 which I didn't want to do because for whatever reason I had problems with one in the past and wanted to stay clear of it this time. Whatever you believe will be easier and do that... If you want to repin the existing computer plug and do that then by all means do so... If you want to run in the AU ECU loom and try and join it into the existing car looms then do that... If you want to re-loom the whole car then do that... Cheers, Tim
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| nathaneaford |
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Ok then well ill read back through this and ill just get all the loom from the au and put it all in my car to me it sounds better and im going to take pictures as im going through it it would be worth replacing the sump gasket while its out i recon so im going to do that aswell thanks for the info guys
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| TimmyA |
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The major of the difficult stuff I got photos of as I went through and showed how I managed to get the dash loom to fit into the ED dash... The Au computer wont drive the E series tacho either... And there is no single coil pulse to drive it either so you'll need something to fill that gap (I run the NL cluster)
Otherwise buy yours a good ford workshop manual so you can trace wiring out... The dash stuff that needs changing is the headlight switch, inst cluster, demister switch, heater plug and fan speed switch, as well as the wiring needing to be changed on the heater switch assembly itself, cd player, clock... I removed the airbag wiring and ABS wiring... I had to add in wiring for the door buttons as AU has none... Made the mounts for the coil pack and relays box... You'll run thermos... The AC system will need modifying... Interior light wiring needs re-routing... If you have cruise you'll have to run the AU style with the EF/EL actuator and modify the wiring loom to suit your E series cruise switches... You'll run the clock spring and EF/EL style combo switch and steering wheel... You'll need to make the hybrid steering column which i detailed at the start of build thread... The AU ignition barrel... Need two AU keys with transponders cut and smartshield remotes... You'll need an EBII or ED pedal box to allow the bracket to be mounted off the side of it for holding the plugs... Mine was a bit more involved again because I had extras including door ajar, remote amp, sub, reversing camera, and all that was included into the body loom so it looks factory... Don't change the sump gasket... I changed the rear main seal and the intake gasket and that was it... And I changed both them just in case... Cheers, Tim
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| misk_one |
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sump gasket on an AU engine is not like EA-EL.
they wont leak unless they break and they don't break while they are bolted together.
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| nathaneaford |
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Ok so i went to pick up the au engine yesturday and the guy didnt have the looms for me so now im stuck with just the engine and ecu i have the intake manifold loom though, my car is a eb ford wondering about just repining the ecu now and wondering what i would need for this?
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| misk_one |
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Do some googling before asking that question mate. There's already a bit of info out there.
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| TimmyA |
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As misk says... Search the forums first... He ready has a thread for this... You'll need both ea and au workshop manuals with full wiring diagrams... You make a list of which pin is what in your current wiring and then where it needs to go in the au computer plug...
You then see what does migrate into the au computer plug and they become spares for the things that the au needs that you don't have... It's a fair logical process but will take you weeks of chart making before you even start wiring... You'll need to be switched on, patient, and prepared to do plenty of your own research... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Minor Change here...
Not sure if the 4 little bolts that hold the headlights in give other people grief but my word I hate having to pull my headlights out... Nearly everytime I go to do the bolts up hey wont tighten and just spin in the speednuts... I believe I narrowed the problem to the bolts themselves being too soft, not the speednuts... So I set about finding a bolt made from a harder material and I came accross these... {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} They're a fixed big headed stainless bolt... I'd have liked the captive washer style like the original ones were but they were impossible to find at all let alone in stainless or something else hard... These are for motorcycles apparently for farings and similar... Do exactly what I need them to do but and all did up nice and tight without stripping out... Only downside is they aren't overly cheap, but they do look good and serve their purpose... Come froma company called Probolt which have a website and tones or different shaped, visually appealing stainless bolts... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Dudes,
Managed to acquire some NL style door ajar switches... 5 in total, one of which was broken but was used for spare parts... I managed to get them apart in the reverse order that Ford assembled them without breaking anything too major, in a fashion that enabled me to get them back together and you wouldn't know any different from the outside... The method to getting them apart is to make sure you have the switches with the stronger steel pin, not the plastic pin like some of mine had today which pretty much just breaks off... Grab hold of the steel pin in a vice as far down as possible so that mounting tabs sit on top of the jaw... Next was I already have a blade screw driver which has had a slot put in the blade for a previous job, it was a perfect fit around the pin, needs to be as tight as practical so the black plastic doesn't break out... Slide the screw driver over the pin and level the switch off it... It will pull out a tiny piece of plastic from what it was pushed into but you'll still need mutligrips or pliers to get it to seat back in on reassembly... So the amount of times you could pull these apart would be limited... Then wire end up I grabbed the end of switch in the vice and very gently used external circlip pliers to pry the narrow sides of the black section out whilst pulling on the wires... It's tedious but being patient and wriggling just enough the tray will slide straight out... You get this: {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} Removing the resistors and changing the bottom wire from the bottom to the top you get this: {DESCRIPTION} This switch will now ground out when the door is open or ajar... You need to put the third groove in the tray due to the wire location change and I used a dab of hot glue to fill the other hole up to keep the dust out... The white tray with the circuit board held against it will slide into the black section and clip in... The place the pin back in it's hole and squeeze it down gently with multigrips until you feel it pop back into it's groove... So today I managed to make up the 4 of these... I have the Finder relays... Now all I need is the time to convert one door at a time to the new switch and then do all the relay wiring in the driver's kick panel... As a side note, one of the door ajar switches turned up in a LH front lock mech and that lock mech does what I was looking for initially... It will lock irrespective of whether the door is ajar or not... Cheers, Tim
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| Mad2 |
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ahhh TimmmyA ... pardon me ignorance
 where/how/what with these switches coz i'm not following your story. all i know is the little earthed 'switch' for the interior light, so would you mind passing some of ya wisdom ova here please??i presume NL = EL .. but LWB yeah? |
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| TimmyA |
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These are the door ajar sensors... They clip into the side of the door lock mechanism... These have the two resistors in them as shown in the first picture and normally give one resistance when the door is open and a different one when the door is closed...
All the do normally is drive the little car icon in the high series instrument clusters... So NA, NC, NF, NL and then D series cars too...  Normally the door button does the interior light... When I did the Au wiring I modified it so it worked as per ED... The buttons did the light, the sensor in the door do ajar... The issue is the button in the pillar goes off when the door is closed but ajar... And the AU uses feedback and if the door is ajar it will unlock the doors when locked and sound the horn... Mine isn't doing this because the door button turns off when the door is closed but ajar... Where this switch isn't... It wont turn off until the door is completely closed... AU used a similar switch which was incorporated into the lock assembly... So each door ajar switch will drive the interior light and hence the feedback input into the BEM to say if the door isn't closed properly, unlock the car and sound the horn... I will then also use these switches to bring in a relay which will have the resistors installed accross it to drive the icon in the inst cluster... It's explained in more detail from here back to when I got the AU going... While it seems pointless, due to the way it is, if the passenger front door is left closed but ajar, the car will lock and be happy, but the passenger door will stay unlocked... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Another ebay photo which will expire but anyway,
 Here you can see the switch (black thing) clipped into the side of the latch mechanism with the wiring leaving it... All it does is one up the door button but not switching over until the door is completely closed, unlike the door button in the car pillar... Cheers, Tim
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| Mad2 |
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ok ... i think i understand you now
 are the switches you grabbed similar to the EA type? [hava gia wagoon]
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| nathaneaford |
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Just a quick question when i send off my j3 chip to be done do i ask for the smarsheild and bcm to be disabled or does the bcm not affect the ecu
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| TimmyA |
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The bem is a separate module like the ecu... Smartshield is a security link between the two... The only way you'll disable the bem is by unplugging it and then nothing will work... So no...
Just tell Jason what you're doing and he'll be able to tell you what you want... Cheers, Tim
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