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| TimmyA |
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Ok...
Small update... This how the BA cruise and radio work... Attachment: BF Switches (Resized).bmp and then slightly edited with the values of the resistors they need to be replaced with (in red) to trigger the EL cruise... The bottom resistor needs removing altogether... Attachment: BF Switches For EL Cruise (Resized).bmp Now off to work out a Flip Flop To turn it on and off...  Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TerroristGHIA |
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Appreciate that timmy. If possible could you PM me a break down of how to get the fans running. I have mine in of a davies craig switch, but its messy and doesnt have the factory look i am chasing.
Also, I am not real good with colours, could you per chance do me up a work doc of how to integrate and EF/EL Cruise into my ED seeing as it never had cruise to start with, and doesn't have the looms required. Cheers Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| TimmyA |
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Brett,
At work now but I'll get onto that this arvo... Basically if you go to the wreckers and run a pair of side cutters through the engine bay loom at about the radiator and bolt the relays and pull them out you've got a pretty good starting point... Remember to unbolt the braket they mount to as well coz I forgot to get mine... Held in with self tapers IIRC...I'll send you the documentation for both a bit later on... Cheers, Tim
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| Swathe |
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Age: 44 Posts: 7 Joined: 29th May 2010 Ride: 1992 EB Fairmont 302 Windsor Location: Rockhampton |
Was not confusing at all, I read it in one sitting it was great.
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| TimmyA |
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Thats cool then...
Cheers... Also Brett, you doing it in a manual or auto? Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Something else that needs doing on the weekend:
Attachment: DSC_0905.JPG Attachment: DSC_0906.JPG For you Brett, This is the thermofan wiring I did up ages ago so I have this one off hand... Will draw up the cruise on a bit later on... Only thing I originally missed wasthat the red wire that supplies power to the relay coils (not the contacts) is switched off the ignition key so the fans can't come on when the car is off... Attachment: EL Falcon Thermatic Fan Wiring.pdf Now for this... If you go to a wreckers and cut out the relay block out of an EL as mentioned near the radiator... Un-tape the loom to it... All the wiring shown above will be already done (as I drew the picture off the EL thermofan relay block... All that is required is a wire the same size or bigger than the main supply wire (big fat yellow one) and Ford had them fused at 60 amps... I doubt they use anywhere near that... Ford's fuses are always over rated... So put a 40 amp fuse on your big supply wire... Run the red one (common to all relays, all bridged into 1 wire) to a switched positive wire somewhere, I found mine under the header tank, the grey relay base has two red with green I think  its the same colour as the main supply sire for the relays anyway its red and something, double check it to make sure it only has power when the key is "on"...Obviously hook your black to earth... Make sure you have a big black wire from the battery to the chassis coz it'll be taking the load off the fans... I ran my black wire back around with the power wire and bolted it directly to the big wire on the chassis rail... Didn't wanna have earthing problems... And then all you got left is the blue and blue with white wires which run to the other side of the coils... The computer earths these out to turn on the relays and the speed control is done with all the other wiring shown in the pic... blue with white is low speed and goes to pin 53 of the computer and blue which is high speed goes to pin 33 (right next door to 53, one row back)... I ran these across to the compressor wiring, put a 2 pin plug there at the compressor and ran them back up and into the cabin alongside the EEC grommet (was much easier with the dash out)... Was easier to do this than run the trigger wires right around the engine bay and into the grommet behind the booster and back accross the dash to the computer, like the EL's had, easy for them as the loom was made to do it... Prick of a job to do that in an ED though... Attachment: EF-EL Computer Wiring Pin Outs.xls Just in case it helps... ^^^ Pretty easy job... Big main power wire (yellow), Big earth wire (Black), Relay coil switched power (red), low speed (blue/white), high speed (blue) and your away... If you don't want the EL fuse block, wire up the power side as in the pic of the wiring I attached... Easier just to but it done though...  I'll start on a cruise one now... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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Sorry Ash...
 I swear I didn't break it... (Excuse the blurry-ness, slow shutter speed, unsteady hand )Attachment: DSC_0907.JPG Attachment: DSC_0908.JPG Attachment: DSC_0909.JPG Attachment: DSC_0912.JPG Some pics for reference... More coming... I'm doing your thingo to Brett... Nearlly done... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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I still haven't had time to try out a flip flop circuit...
 I have been thinking non stop... I was down at the old mans workplace this arvo (Ford dealership) and his co-workers said why the f**k do you wanna do this... Just because I can... Oh and because Ash wants the same set up... haha... Cheers...
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| TimmyA |
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A momo...
Attachment: DSC_0915.JPG Airbag-less hornpad... Attachment: DSC_0923.JPG and something to have some fun with later on... Attachment: DSC_0924.JPG 
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| TimmyA |
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Na not yet... Feel great though...
Wont worry til I get the combo switch sorted out... Which prob wont be until I get the cruise sorted out... hell it'll prob just happen all at once...
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| TimmyA |
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Note how all the little modules are the same that mount on the back, except for the provision for the hazzards, will use the EL one of those modules...
Attachment: DSC_0916.JPG Stalk offset differences... Attachment: DSC_0918.JPG And note how all the arms, mounts, plate, and bits and piece in the front are identical (with the exception of the spigot thing that cancels blinkers... Those combo switches that were designed back in EA so what 1988? Must have been good s**t... Or are they even earlier...  ???Attachment: DSC_0921.JPG That's it for pics today... I'll just finish Brett's thing and post it up now... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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Brett,
Here is my artwork... Attachment: Cruise Control Wiring.pdf Ok some notes with the circuit... If it is a manual you will need the two genuine cruise buttons for the pedals plus there plastic bezel to mount them in... It is auto you only need the one for the brake pedal... You will require the small wiring harness that adapts to them... The autos have 1 plug to 1 plug, and the manuals (way pic is drawn) have 1 plug (2 pin plug mentioned in pic) to 2 plugs (1 for each switch) and are hooked up in series courtesy of this little loom... You don't need any of the vac hose stuff for them though, only using the electric half with the EL module... You will need to cut a plug off to fit the adaptor loom... Colours are listed (other side of 2 pin plug) and wiring in according to pic... Use a test light or volt meter to measure the live side of the stop lamp switch (already on brake pedal) (only live with key "on")... the live side is supply to cruise module (pin 7) other side of switch (brake lamps side) is fed into pin 4 which is you main cancel... pin 9 is your back up and on the EL senses the pressure sensor in the master cylinder... It cannot be retrofitted to the ED master cylinder so I used the factory switches... The cruise switches are both normally closed (with pedal NOT depressed) and the stop light switch is normally open (with pedal NOT depressed)... This worked in well, I can't see how the Ford diagram works, so I did this my way... Pin 9 needs +12V to work Pin 4 needs no voltage to work... Pin 9 is fail safe, whereby is s**t happens (switch brakes, comes out bezel, wiring gets broken, etc) it looses +12V to pin 9 and cancels... hence why the switches are in series... You existing brown wire for your horn (white in combo switch loom) needs to be disconnected and ran to the EL module (easier to leave where it is and run a new wire from combo switch plug) along with the blue/yellow wire (yellow in combo loom)... blue/white and white splice into relevant colours marked behind the cluster... and that should get you away... send us a message if you have any dramas... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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only changed the way the body mounts, the thingo to interface with the blinker cancel, and the arm shape mainly... The guts is the same...I was pretty sure they were... This is what makes it possible...
except for make the cruise wiring
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| TerroristGHIA |
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Cheers for all the Effort tim, Muchly appreciated. I have an Auto ED, it has a serpentine and a BBM conversion so far, using an EL auto ecu. I also already have the themos in the car and running, but they are using a craig davies switch. I also have genuine ED cruise switches, as i have an EB GT Momo cruise wheel, and scoured an EL Cruise module including a fair amount of loom and the factory plug. I have downloaded the various docs and excell spread sheet and will get to them commencing monday( days off). Sorry to steal you build thread but you have already completed most of the stuff i want from my ED.
Cheers and much appreciated. Brett
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| TimmyA |
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Na matey thats cool.
I went to heaps of effort to work a lot of this stuff out... I originally hassled BenJ to get those pin outs for that thing and then worked out how to wire it in... I looked at this set up: http://www.norcom.net.au/~bpt/Thermo%20Fan%20Kit.htm I originally wanted thermos and wasn't gonna run the chipped EL ECU... when I discovered the possibilities with using the EL ECU on a log manifold I decided I'd run the thermos that way and had to work out how to wire them up... So the factory EL relay block made it easiest... I certainly wasn't paying 400 bucks for 4 relays... I started coming across paper work and drew them up... Hardest part was physically changing the cable to suit a log manifold, you wont have this trouble though... The EL cruise module could nearly be adapted into any car... As long as the speed sensor had the right wave output, whatever it is, probably square wave... BenJ's doco he sent me: Attachment: EF-EL Cruise Control Connector Pin Out Information.xls Your difference will be from the two pin plug, you will buy one switch which goes either under or over the stop lamp switch (not sure which way now ) and the adaptor loom (as long as it comes out of an auto will be configured for just the one switch, just remember to cut the dash side of the plug off while your going so you can wire it in... Then if you ever go to a manual just matter of buying the different adaptor loom and the extra switch + mounting bezel...And you'll need to pop apart the ED cruise switches and change the set resistor from 330 ohms to a 680 ohm resistor (try to get as lower tolerance as possible, 1 or 2%) {DESCRIPTION}. And the resume coast button will need to be changed from 1000ohms to 2200ohms {DESCRIPTION}. That might be fiddly, haven't done that before because I went to EL steering wheel all in one go... Old mate Ash sent me many lots of gear for bits and pieces to work out how to do it... So that was a big help... Its fairly simple... On low speed mode the fans are hooked in series so each fan gets about charge voltage (14V?)... SO each sees around 7 volts... On full speed the second two relays change them from being hooked in series to hooked in parallel so each fan gets full voltage across it at around the 14V mark... Not too hard, always here to help if you get stuck... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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