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snap0964 |
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Yeah no probs - many people on here have proved the 'impossible' will work.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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TimmyA |
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Yeah too easy there... Happy to share what limited experience I have...
May open up the door to others converting and E series to an AU motor... Bit of wiring changing in the car and they too can easily have sequential injection and EDIS in their car... Other thing you gain is the overheat managment strategy... Most people don't know about this but here is the excerpt from the Genuine AU Manual Quote: I6 Engine Cooling Strategy The I6 engine cooling strategy ensures the continued operation of the engine in the event of coolant loss or extremely high temperatures. If the engine temperature exceeds 120 degrees, to maintain a safe engine operating temperature, the fuel injectors are sequentially shut off to allow each cylinder to be cooled by the intake air. The engine may run rough when operating in overheat management strategy mode. The I6 ECT sensor is able to measure higher temperatures than the V8 engine ECT. Although you wont gain this yet misk until you run the ECT sensor in the head... This is where the overheat strategy came about... Just another reason to run AU stuff... Cheers, Tim
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misk_one |
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yeah well i have the AU head on the hyrbid engine but really cbf doing that when im putting in the barra anyway lol.
and dont sell yourself short dude, you've accomplished heaps with this build and learned a s**t load along the way which will be very useful to others!
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TimmyA |
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Has anyone had an issue with the EF/EL door trims destroying 6.5" speakers?
When I take my door trims off the rubber cone surround on my JBL's is buggered because where the grill fits through the trims and the melt the tags over on the back of it, they press directly on the rubber surround and have torn it... I can't push the door trim out because it already touches the dash on both sides... I wouldn't mind pulling the grill out and cutting the hole round and fitting the proper speaker grill to the speaker and having it protrude through the trim but it may look like crap and I'm going to destroy a trim to try it out... Not sure what else I can do... The speakers will be too hard to mount behind the door skin I think to try and achieve clearance... Anybody ever seen anything or had this problem themselves? Cheers, Tim
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MAD |
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I've seen it but haven't suffered from it personally.
Not much choice other than cut for clearance, or buy smaller speakers. Could you cut all the melt tabs off and use some silicone to re-attached the grill. |
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fiend |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I've seen it but haven't suffered from it personally. Not much choice other than cut for clearance, or buy smaller speakers. Could you cut all the melt tabs off and use some silicone to re-attached the grill. Yes, had to do this myself. Also had to put a bevelled bit of plastic over the back of the speaker magnet as sometimes the window would hit the speaker when winding down (Kenwood 3 way 6x9's) Cut everything out the back and use little daubs of black or gray silicon. You can put something like cling film over it, and then simply shut the door and walk off until set as it will be held in place by the dash. |
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TimmyA |
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Cheers guys...
Want to get some focals but don't want them to suffer the same fate... May make this small modification myself... Didn't even think of doing that... Cheers, Tim
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nathaneaford |
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Hey mate just like to say i finnished putting the au vct motor in my car with au ecu with all ea dash loom and all works fine thanks to alot of your stuff you have posted up haha thanks mate
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misk_one |
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timmy was it you that mentioned that the EL cluster will revert to V8 spec if not driven by an EL ECU 100%?
i can't remember who said it or how to fix it lol but how did you get yours running 6cyl
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TimmyA |
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Na wasn't me...
You know there is no such thing as a v8 EF/EL cluster yeah? The ED had a I6 and v8 specific cluster because the tacho was driven by the coil negative which on a v8 has done 8 pulses for 2 revs while on a 6 it has done 6 pulse for 2 revs... On the EF had no coil negative (well technically it has 3) and to drive the tacho plus have something that worked in the V8 they used what is the SPOUT wire out of the TFI on the v8 and then had the ECU generate the same output as that on the I6 which is called tacho out on the I6... The EL went back to a dizzy and they used the SPOUT on both the I6 and v8 to drive the tacho... AU has the same as EF... a tacho out which is identical pulse to the SPOUT present on everything with a dizzy... The AU v8 must've been like the I6 because ti runs coil packs instead of a dizzy... Mine runs exactly like that... The AU computer's tacho out is hooked to the tacho in on the NL cluster and it just works... Nice and simple... Cheers, Tim
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BenJ |
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OK Timmy, Question without notice.
Do you have any idea if the crank angle sensor from the EF/AU six is the same signal as a BA? The reason is that I have been toying with swapping out my EL ECU for an EF ECU. This is because at the moment the EL ECU doesn't receive a SPOUT signal, and therefore does not send a tacho signal through the DATA Line. As a result the Climate Control module believes the engine is not running and won't turn the A/C pump on etc. If I run the BA Crank Angle signal to the EF ECU input I am hoping this will fix the above issue, as well as give me a more reliable tacho. Any thoughts you have on this would be appreciated. Regards BenJ
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misk_one |
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should be the same benj, they look exactly the same just different mounting points/style.
timmy, why is my cluster reading different revs then? i hit the rev limit at around 4900 rpm lol, its def. hitting 5500 or whatever the rev limit is.
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TimmyA |
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Ben,
Working on an answer for you right now... Just downloading a BA workshop manual and while I suspect it should work I'll see if I can find something that actually says so first... Misk, No idea man... It's literally that simple... If you have the tacho output pin on the PCM connected to the tacho in on the cluster and haven't had a lapse of concentration and hooked something else into it or up instead of it it should work... Have you compared the tacho to a DMM which a tacho feature? Ford says never to use their tacho for setting base idle or anything like that... Like all gauges in the cluster they are for "indication only and are not calibrated"... Just set the DMM up and rev it up to 2k for example and compare them... Remember when it was EL the spout wire drove it and went out to the dizzy as well... Did you use that wire to drive the tacho, and did you cut the tail off that went out to the spout on the dizzy? Cheers, Tim
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misk_one |
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nothing is connected to the spout wire, it is now in the tacho out pin.
if it wasn't you then it was either snap, swc or bnj, someone said it lol. a 6cyl using a tacho on 4cyl mode will read high, where a 8cyl tacho on a 6cyl will read low. i can't remember what circumstances cause the cluster to read in 8cyl mode but there no other reason for it to all of a sudden not read correctly. i'm not talking about a small discrepancy, its around 1200rpm, not an amount that can be put down to inaccurate gauges. i'll have to try searching harder i guess.
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TimmyA |
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Yeah don't know... As I said but the input signa; is the same on I6 or v8 as far as I'm aware... Mine works flawlessly with all the factory AU wiring... Never missed a beat and is accurate to my handheld code scanner when viewing live information from the PCM...
Cheers, Tim
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