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| TimmyA |
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Ben,
Here's what I have... Attachment: falcon-au-2.pdf Attachment: falcon-ba.pdf Same idea... Same teeth, same position for the missing tooth... Same PIP signal... Same out wave... Same counting... Only thing is the BA doesn't dpecify an output voltage where the AU does... As long as the voltage is similar you could certainly run and AUI computer and I would think an EF computer would be the same... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TROYMAN |
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crank signal is the same. there is a guy on aff that's running a ba engine off a au ecu using ba crank sensor..
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| BenJ |
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Ok, thanks Tim and Troy.
So then the SPOUT and the Crank Signal are different signals then? I couldn't connect the Crank Signal to the SPOUT wire on an EL ECU? Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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Ben,
Na mate... The spout is an output... Spark out is what it stands for... It's the pulse the tfi interpreted to determine when to fire the coil... The pip is the square wave input from the hall effect which the computer used to work out spout and ensure the motor was running... Pip signal would be 5 or 12v may vp... The crank angle sensor au stuff says it puts out 200v at 5500rpm... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Well couple of teething issues before going away on holidays at Christmas...
The AC compressor appears to have a shot front seal and spraying gas and oil on everything in plane with gap between the clutch plate and pulley... So bugger that... Works so good too... Guess s**t happens and it always seems to with second hand air compressors... At least with me anyway... So I'll be replacing it with a new unit I think... Save the s**t... The oil pressure gauge is acting up on occasion... It'll either max out or drop off to nothing for no reason... Then next time you start it there is no issue... So I guess that is on it's way out... I need to get it some new shoes to avoid any issues... Any that's about it I think... Been running Micky Mouse otherwise... Still getting around 8 as an average on the diag mode in the cluster... So that's not bad... Did about 500km to deni and back on the weekend to visit inlaws and all was happy there too so the AU conversion has turned out to be a real win... Quite happy... This weekend I'll work to get the AU top arms in and the alignment done and change the tires and we'll see how it handles then and give a bit to see how the tires wear... Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: The AC compressor appears to have a shot front seal and spraying gas and oil on everything in plane with gap between the clutch plate and pulley... So bugger that... Works so good too... Guess s**t happens and it always seems to with second hand air compressors... At least with me anyway... So I'll be replacing it with a new unit I think... Save the s**t... Get ready to prop yourself up when you hear the price. The AU's still run Sanden's ?? - the BA Nippondensos are pretty easy to do the front seal. I've done a few EF/EL Sanden's using this write up: post1371303.html . Plus I can charge and evacuate my systems now - Hychill beats the pants off R134A gas - particularly in 30 degs or over ambient temps.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Ray,
Yeah old man is getting it for me Trade... $300 for a brand new Sanden... Apparently the AU ran a Halla pump and the dude in the know sells them for $400 but says they're s**t as Sanden took their design and made it better and produce it cheaper... Sounded good to me... I had hi chill in mine and found no difference... This is ages ago... Pulled it out and put R134a back in again... Old man has his AC license so that makes that easy... Was told to put in like half as much or something like that (no idea now, but it was some fraction) and it was no better from what we could tell... Did you only put in a fraction as much gas? So all set for the holidays... Chasing new shoes... New Tridon oil pressure sender is coming... New compressor and drier are here... Top arms going in on the weekend... Getting there slowly... Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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Yeah, the EF/EL's had 1150 grams of R134a originally, nowadays, 850 grams is the norm. Hychill is 300 grams - I noticed in 30 degs+ temp, Hychill maintains it cooling - R134a would struggle. Also with Hychill, the system doesn't seem to work as hard.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| TimmyA |
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Yeah no worries... I think ED was 1100? or maybe 1150 too...
Whatever ED is is how much gas it holds currently anyway... We figured the system was the same size as the ED just it was an AU compressor pushing it around so we kept the ED qty... Works absolutely fantastic... Vent temperature is chilly at like 7 degrees I think and the evaporator gets down to 2 or 3 according to the diag tester... This summer will be it's test... not sure if the old man even has the hychill anymore... Someone gave it to him and we tried it on mine and it seemed poor... BUT that may have been because of the semi dodgy ED compressor I had in the past too... Just read the AU manual for the Halla one... You need a host of special tools to get the old seal out from down inside the nose and then the reseat the new seal back down where the old one came out... Appears to be a massive pain in the a**... Well maybe not without the correct gear... But I don't know how you'd get it that far down inside the nose without the "seal removal tool"... Lucky I already have the new one I guess... Saves the temptation... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Well...
The new compressor and drier are on and charged with 1100grams of R134a again... Seems to work good... Well good considering we hit the magically 41 or 42 that was scheduled for today... The 15 degrees vent temp while parked with no air flow through the condenser felt cold so I feel happy... the Sanden compressor is impressive looking in it's new and shiney state and has a different clutch design to the Halla unit and seem quieter to engage but this may just be because it's new too... AU top arms are in aligned... Took out maybe 5mm of shims on each side to get -.5camber and dialled it in to about 1mm toe in and we'll see how tire wear goes... It does feel different to drive... Definitely heavier in the steering which I don't mind but has good stance at 100km/hr and seems to drive nice and straight... I did tire squeal for a hard right at an intersection this afternoon as reasonable speed so hopefully haven't lost too much grip now it's lifting the outsides of the wheels when cornering... Quite happy but... A few long drives and I'll soon know as I'll hopefully be less exhausted from trying to hold the car on the road... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Update!
The AC seems to be working well... Now the temps have dropped off a bit it cycles like it used to and pumps out some chilly air... Can't complain anyway... May still check the evap temp and system pressure... The top arms are great... Really enjoying driving with them... Just feels so much better and the car drives straight and feels positive when cornering... Quite happy all in all for the couple hundred bucks it set me back... Oil pressure sender hasn't played up, but I now have a spare in my car incase it s**t's itself... Today got some new shoes fitted up... Wanted to try Toyo's but they're impossible to get before holidays so ended up with what the tire guy reckons are the best tires he's sold... Potenza RE002's... Funny looking asymmetrical tire... {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} Nice and quiet anyway... Time will tell how good they are and how well they last... Seem to corner good with the tiny bit of driving I've done so far... Anybody running these with any feedback on whether the decision was good or bad... It's already done but feedback after the fact is still good... Basically I was stuck before holidays and this was pretty well all I was going to get and for $165 trade ea they were a good price... The toyo Teo plus' I wanted were available in wagga for $190ea plug I would have had a 300km round trip... Cheers, Tim
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| Mad2 |
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sounds like all is well then
 just a quick one ....... where did ya get ya spare oil sender from? i presume its the oil pressure not the idiot light type?? [i got no idea where ta grab a new one from] |
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| TimmyA |
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Cheers...
Yeah its the sender not the switch... Just eBay it... Tps069 or tfs069 can't remember now... But anywhere who sells tridon should be able to hook you up... Cheers, Tim
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| Mad2 |
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Thanks
it was the 1st one - Tps069 |
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| TimmyA |
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Well I've blown more LED's in my instrument cluster... Sick of changing them so went about investigating the cause...
Turns out an LED which is sold as a 12V LED wont run on a car which has a 14.4V system when running... Especially with the new alternator... I have heaps of volts nowadays... I discovered the ebay T5 single SMD5050 LED's I had for the cluster drew 50mA at 12V and had 3V across the chip, while they flow 65mA at 14.4V and still 3V across the chip... The resistors are 175ohm 1/8th watt looking units (maybe 1/4W) and dropping 11.4V at 65mA they are dissipating .74W and this is why I cooked some real fast (.45W at 12V)... Thirty seconds after I cranked the power supply up to 14.4V I had this happening... {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} So you can see why they were not lasting... Some quick calcs to try and get something more useable... I decided on replacing the 175ohm resistor with a 330ohm 1/2W unit... This give me 3V drop and 38mA at 14.4 volts meaning the power dissipated by the resistor is now .433W which means the resistor should handle it forever and the LED should now last for it's rated hours... The LED output appears much the same to the eye because it's so bloody intense... So I ended up modding about 16 LED's from the small resistor to the larger blue unit... {DESCRIPTION} And it only just fits in the T5 plastic base... I modified some of the 5 LED SMD5050 T10 LED's too... They're a bit harder to work out so I dropped them by the same ratio... They have a 62ohm resistor and I replaced it with a 100ohm unit... Still just as bright again... and dropped the current by a a fair bit to hopefully extend the life of the unit... If anyone else is having any troubles with their LED's this may be something to try... I replaced all of mine just in case... But some of the trouble free units I removed only drew 35mA so must have a bigger resistor fitted... But the new ones I've purchased just recently are crap... So something to be mindful of if you're experiencing difficulties... Cheers, Tim
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