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| Grimketel |
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The old grey mare, she aint what she used to be- time to retire the old AUII SR franken-car.
(old thread: {DESCRIPTION}) After all it's trials and tribulations, thrashings and crashings, and abortive attempts to do everything for under 50 cents- it is due for a rest. Not dead, no... this car can't be killed. I have tried! Just resting... or rusting. Probably both. A few months back, I decided time for something that goes a bit harder. And a winter white 2006 BF II turbo with 135,000 kms came up and I walked away $12,500 lighter for it. Bog stock, no tinkerers! Runs smooth and true. The ZF 6 speed is great, as are the territory spec brakes it somehow got (bigger rotors). I like the part where it says engine family model: typhoon on the bonnet tag. There were cheaper B series turbo's out there- modded, shagged, high k's, BA's etc- but this one looked like, and drove like it had been kept well. So happy to have bought it! Overtakes ftw!
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| fiftyone |
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Nice find mate.
I got my f6 & certianly haven't looked back. They're a great package
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| Grimketel |
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Thanks Fifty- they really are understated in both looks and their power delivery. A friend has likened the feeling to taking off in a jumbo jet liner- the power is a steady surge. Nothing that shocks, just throws you into the horizon.
Due to it's age some things are showing up- one of the hose clamps on the hotside was buggered and was leaking a bit of boost. A $2 fix. Just gave it the full service with oil, filters, sparkplugs etc. Saving up for the dreaded 6 speed service. In the meantime a new GFB blow off valve has gone on to replace the tired old bosch factory unit. Injectors were replaced with 60lb deka's, and a 11lb boost tune was uploaded via SCT xcal 3.   It makes a noise difference, you can't hear the turbo at 6lb. Sure can at 11. Estimates by the tuner is between 250-270kw at the wheels depending on condition. Will put it on the rollers after ZF service, sometime in the new year. Once the ZF service is done will look at a xforce dump and HF cat to clear the gasses @ 11lb a bit better.
_________________ enough isn't enough Last edited by Grimketel on Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:31 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| fiftyone |
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Word to the wise on the ZF service, you can do it yourself in the driveway but its a bit of a pain. I did mine & enjoyed it in a sick way though.
You can buy a new steel ZF pan WITH drain plug from ZF in sydney. In going steel you'll definitely need a stand alone filter. ZF lg6 is the stuff to use, theres a shell product which is similar & approved and also a Gulf Western that comes highly regarded. I used Penrite DX-IV which some people tell you to stay away from but I can confirm its been good for me. Also, buy some new bolts for the pan with hex heads not torx, they're a pain those things. You can also get a 20L drum of LG6 from sydney direct for under $500 shipped so I'm told. For anyone that says that a quality or sealed box doesn't need a service, I call BS. Have a look at what came out of my ZF. Cooked, smelt like a**, watery & was like brown sparkle paint with all the metallics in it. Service your box every 50k. It's so worth it. Attachment: IMG_1673.JPG Attachment: IMG_1672.JPG
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| Grimketel |
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Thanks for the tips Fifty- did you just use some sort of pump pack to get the new fluid in? Ive read it is 4.5 ltr for service drain, or 10ltrs for complete refill.
I work at Repco in Geelong- I can get the bits easily enough. The entire plastic pan w/filter costs me half what it costs Joe Public  Its the ZF fluid that kills- 30 bucks per litre. How much did the steel pan cost from ZF if you don;t mind me asking? Would make it a lot cheaper exercise in the long run only having to replace a filter. I fully agree with servicing these so called "sealed units". They say they are a lifetime unit because the only want you to do a max of 10 years in it. The transmission is meant to pack up before then if left unserviced so you buy another car. The old man serviced the old BTR 4 speed in the EF XR6 wagon every 40 thou, and with 426,000 kays on it baffled all mechanics who drove it. Tight as a drum.
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| fiftyone |
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The steel pan cost me about $230 with a filter. Word to the wise, i would buy the zf fluid & pan in one hit from ZF direct & be done with it. Just make sure you get a steel pan WITH plug. You'll need more like 20L to do a flush. Easiest would be to maybe, dump & fill it, flush the majority out of the coolant lines with cheaper fluid while pumping fresh stuff in. When your done, just fill it with the good stuff a few times. The converter holds about 7.5l iirc and its a pain to get out.
I borrowed a old oil drum pump & sort of decanted from that. Also, probably budget ~$650 to do the job with al the gear from zf. Its cheap enough esp if you know that the box gets a full flush
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| Grimketel |
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That's great fifty, thanks.
It's nice to know what to budget in advance. With Christmas over, its now time to repair the wallet, then the things on the car. Last week or so the rotors have been throbbing after moderate stops. I think it is time to get new ones, I'd rather get new rotors and know they are good for 5 years or more than do a cheap machine. Priced up a set of DBA42107S club spec slotted fronts through work, 420 bucks, which is around what they go for on ebay. RRP is $334 each :S No wonder stores can't sell anything. Add a set of bendix db1473ULT pads to the list and it's about 530 bucks for rotors and pads. Steep- very f**k steep, but they are good gear, and will stop 1.8 tons of hard charging aussie muscle better than standard rotors methinks.
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| Grimketel |
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Some more goodies (some might say a late xmas gift to myself). Set of L&R DBA 4000 series slotted rotors and ultimate pads.
 These are superseded stock since DBA now sell them in the set of multidirectional rotors (under the t3 club spec banner)  Once I got in there and sorted out what was what under there it was surprisingly easy job (when compared to the EB I did one time). The tricky bit was keeping the rotors and calipers stable when reassembling them. Ended up using ring spanners to pad out the distance for the nuts to lock it into place so I could get the calipers back on without fuss   Lefty and righty, ready to do some serious stopping   After a quick burn around to bed things in a bit they feel softer than the old units (could be s**t pads I took out), but stops very nicely. Hitting the pedal hard makes the front of your face pull forward and you get a dizzy feel in your head. I'd say job done.
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| frankieh |
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12 and a half grand is an awesome price to pay for such A low km straight BF. I paid 7 grand for my BA and considered myself lucky. But as with everything else.. car prices in Perth are inflated.
Has your baby got the premium ICC with color screen? |
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| Grimketel |
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No, just the standard sound system. It would have been nice I guess, but I was happy with the phoon motor internals, ZF, factory territory brakes all round and reversing sensors. The prem ICC and a factory sunroof would have been great, but probably out of my $$ range at that point (budget of 13k).
I almost dropped the coin on a BA mk II, silhouette, 4spd with prem sound. It only had 95,000 on the clock. Very nice- had recently had diff bushings done, and had the BF steering column installed. Except he sold it before I could get the money up. He wanted 12k, ended up selling close to 11k. That was after I missed the ball on an immaculate red S3 AU XR8 with 80,000 on it for 9k. It's not just Perth that has inflated prices! Granted these examples were mint, and the turbo in silhouette was absolute horn.
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| frankieh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: No, just the standard sound system. It would have been nice I guess, but I was happy with the phoon motor internals, ZF, factory territory brakes all round and reversing sensors. The prem ICC and a factory sunroof would have been great, but probably out of my $$ range at that point (budget of 13k). I almost dropped the coin on a BA mk II, silhouette, 4spd with prem sound. It only had 95,000 on the clock. Very nice- had recently had diff bushings done, and had the BF steering column installed. Except he sold it before I could get the money up. He wanted 12k, ended up selling close to 11k. That was after I missed the ball on an immaculate red S3 AU XR8 with 80,000 on it for 9k. It's not just Perth that has inflated prices! Granted these examples were mint, and the turbo in silhouette was absolute horn. My car had a low series BEM and ICC... The ICC is really the only part of the premium factory system worth having anyway. (I was in car audio for many years) I picked up a BF hi series BEM and premium ICC (for a hundred bucks), stuck them in and coded it with the vcm I had then. Works great. Gonna pull it out later and put RCA connectors on it. (Would be easier if I could find the tech doc about it that apparently was floating around here) I have thousands of dollars of audio equipment in storage to go in there. Alpine optical DTS 5.1 surround.. The whole bit. |
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| Grimketel |
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Bloody hell mate- thats a lot of kit. Will be a rolling theater by the time you are done lol.
Electricity and wires aren't my forte sadly. If it's not connected by bolts and doesn't run on petrol I tend to get a bit lost.
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| Grimketel |
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Finally got around to getting a dyno run to see how things are travelling.
All signs point to everything being spot on, in the context of what is to be expected. Chris at Daltons advises the big boost drop off is due to the stock dump and cat, which was expected. He advises that a 4 inch dump and good high flow cat section will immediately up that to 250 rwkw. Which is exactly where I want it to be. His conversion estimates is the engine is running at about 290-295 kw. Not bad improvement for 1200 bucks...
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| frankieh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Finally got around to getting a dyno run to see how things are travelling. All signs point to everything being spot on, in the context of what is to be expected. Chris at Daltons advises the big boost drop off is due to the stock dump and cat, which was expected. He advises that a 4 inch dump and good high flow cat section will immediately up that to 250 rwkw. Which is exactly where I want it to be. His conversion estimates is the engine is running at about 290-295 kw. Not bad improvement for 1200 bucks... Excellent! That is one thing I am still missing.. a 4 inch dump pipe.. my exhaust guy said I needed one badly. Already have the big cat and it made a big difference by itself. Also wanted to ask you if the BOV made any difference.. apparently the factory jobs lose their tension and leak out boost the older they get.. mine is 10 years old and has done lots of miles so I just picked up an autotechnica one.. (mightycarmods on yourtube dyno'd with a heap of them and only the factory one had less performance so I didn't think spending lots of money made much sense for a BOV... I got a plumb back one as I am not interested in the shhhh noise and attention from cops.) One of the things I have never done that I want to do is to go to a dyno day.. never had one of my cars dyno'd and I think it's about time.. then going to take the car out to the local race track near the airport and give it a thrashing for a few hours.. followed by trying to break 12 seconds on the strip. (that will be after the JTG is on and I have much more power and a better gearbox) |
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| Grimketel |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Excellent! That is one thing I am still missing.. a 4 inch dump pipe.. my exhaust guy said I needed one badly. Already have the big cat and it made a big difference by itself. Also wanted to ask you if the BOV made any difference.. apparently the factory jobs lose their tension and leak out boost the older they get.. mine is 10 years old and has done lots of miles so I just picked up an autotechnica one.. (mightycarmods on yourtube dyno'd with a heap of them and only the factory one had less performance so I didn't think spending lots of money made much sense for a BOV... I got a plumb back one as I am not interested in the shhhh noise and attention from cops.) One of the things I have never done that I want to do is to go to a dyno day.. never had one of my cars dyno'd and I think it's about time.. then going to take the car out to the local race track near the airport and give it a thrashing for a few hours.. followed by trying to break 12 seconds on the strip. (that will be after the JTG is on and I have much more power and a better gearbox) As far as the bov went it picked up responsiveness- made it feel less lethargic coming on boost. Doesn't really add power, but does help the life of the turbo. Boost leaks means the turbo has to spin harder to achieve the preordained boost level. It's my first trip to the dyno, never had a car worth dyno'ing before. It's not ready for the strip just yet- even though I am anxious to see what it does. There's not that much point if I'm loosing 5lbs of top end boost to crappy factory exhaust gear. It will kill trap speed fairly hard. Also having a brake shudder issue in the rears when stopping from above 90kmh. Not 100% sure what's causing it but from what I have read signs are pointing to a bush or bushes somewhere not doing their job, and things moving around as a result of braking forces. Not going to slam down a 160kph run with unreliable rears.
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