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| XESP351 |
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Now that engine is in, it was time for some ancillaries, and first up was power steering. I used XG power steering hoses complete with the cooler that comes on XG's, the only difference is that the fitting from the XG hose does not fit into XE power steering box, wish I knew that before I paid for a full reco XE box, otherwise I would have got an XG box which would have been a straight bolt on. Anyway I ended up getting Enzed to make me an XG high pressure hose with XE fitting at box end. The whole thing fitted beautifully, I had to get a bit inventive with the mounting of the cooler, but it looks like it was there from factory. Here are some pics of the whole system fitted.
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| XESP351 |
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I then started thinking about the cooling system, got some new radiator insulator rubbers
{DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} And I got a new XE V8 radiator with the outlets swapped over to match AU engine and sized to match AU hoses. I also had a thermo fan switch tapped into the radiator so when the fans are wired up they can plug straight into there. While the radiator was being made, I thought I would clean up the interior and put the driver's seat in {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} New radiator {DESCRIPTION} And fitted straight in {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} A photo of the bottom hose and the switch in the radiator, as you can see the hose is a universal one. {DESCRIPTION} Top hose was just the standard AU hose shortened and it fitted fine {DESCRIPTION} |
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| XESP351 |
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I had some AU thermo fans laying around, I prefer to use these as they only have one plug (as opposed to the EF ones on my ESP which have two), however when i put them in they were ever so slightly too thick and were touching the engine, i always knew there wouldn't be much room after the fans were installed as I have seen this setup in other cars, but this was too close. I did some research and found that EL thermo fans also have one plug but they are also a little thinner than AU fans, so I went and got some EL thermos and sure enough they were thinner, leaving enough room between the fans nd the engine pulleys for me to be comfortable with the set up. So i modified and trial fitted them a few times to make sure they fit flush to radiator and there is access to the thermo switch etc. Here is some pics of the final installation, the first pic also shows the top hose a bit clearer.
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And that's where I am up to, next I will be hooking up all heater hoses and heater tap which is not as straight forward as it sounds as there needs to be a mix of XE and AU hoses, and last thing to be done before it goes to tuner is hook up throttle cable.
I am trying to put down as much detail as possible on this engine transplant so that hopefully anyone attempting this conversion has all the info in one place and can benefit from this build. I have had to spend hours on researching all the info which I had to piece together from various sources plus try different things to see how it works. This wasted a fair bit of time and cash and hopefully others won't have to do that since the info is all here. Hope you have all enjoyed so far. |
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| TimmyA |
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Looks good mate...
I did this 12 months ago to the ED took some preparation work... I did full AU looms and PCM too... Are you runing coil packs or dizzy? If you are going with the dizzy did you need to bend the oil feed to the VCT to gain clearance, I did when I had the head on my ED block... Did you find a gasket set which included the rocker cover gasket for the VCT? they're as rare as rocking horse s**t... Pretty sure you can only get them through Ford and they're probably obsolete now too... Cheers, Tim
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| xcabbi |
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Looking good so far. A tip on the heater hoses. Just get random 5/8" hoses and cut out the 90 degree bends use 16mm aluminium tube from burnings for the straight sections and put a bead on the ends with a cheap double flaring tool (only flare once with the bubble die). The only problem with this approach is that you could end up needing a ridiculous amount of house clamps but that's the only downside.
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Cheers guys.
The plan is to run dizzy and gas carb, I have two dizzys for the tuner to choose from, an EL one and the original XE one, he will need to modify it to fit into AU block and regraph etc so I'm leaving the dizzy installation to him, he has done this a few times he tells me. With regards to the heater hoses, i did a little research and found that XF injected motors run heater hoses that have a 90 degree angle which is similar to the AU hose setup, so I will use the XF hoses from the fire wall then use a 19mm-16mm reducer into the usual AU heater hose arrangement, that's the easiest way i found. And no I couldn't find a VCT rocker cover gasket, the one in the picture is a normal AU engine gasket set which i modified. |
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| XESP351 |
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So after being stuffed around by the tuner who is full of promises but can't deliver, I decided this already doesn't bode well and it's best not to trust him with the car and that I would do things differently with less reliance on one person or workshop, and more reliance on myself. My auto sparky will wire up AU alternator, thermo fans, dizzy and coil, temp and oil sensors and VCT, and that will be all electrics done. I will have the dizzy regraphed and modified for AU block and will fit it then I will source the new LPG converter and gas research carb and fit myself, then take it to an LPG specialist who will put the final touches and tune it on the dyno.
I'll post here as updates happen. |
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| XESP351 |
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Small update but still progress.
Got the stuff I needed to make up new heater hoses which will need to be a mix of XF injected (as mentioned they have a 90 degree angle straight down from fire wall) and AU heater hoses. {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} Hoses dummy fitted {DESCRIPTION} And completed {DESCRIPTION} I will fit them once I flush the heater core on the weekend. Also spent some time removing all AU engine wiring including VCT, injectors, crank angle sensor etc as none of it would be needed, looks much neater now for the auto elec to run new wiring to the dizzy and oil sensor. I also took the dizzy away to get regraphed for straight gas and modified for AU block and I ordered the GRA carb and new gas converter. I am also hoping to finish installing the throttle cable on the weekend and hopefully the car can go to the auto elec early next week. |
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| TimmyA |
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If you're not running the VCT then you can pull the solid oil line off, fit the sender straight into the block (less s**t that's likely to work loose and leak one day) and find a fine bolt to block the side of the VCT housing...
You can also pull the phasor and cam out and fit an aftermarket or std cam with a vernier gear and set that up to your liking... If you are not running VCT I'd get rid of the above parts... Can probably pull the solenoid from the other side of the phasor housing too and block off if required... Cheers, Tim
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Hey Timmy, I'm still hoping to run VCT using an RPM switch but not sure on the details yet. If it proves to be too difficult I'll most likely just keep the solenoid unplugged and run without VCT, but I would prefer if I can run it.
I know it retards the timing around 3000 rpm but then what happens when rpm falls back under 3000? Is there another signal that advances the timing again? I need to look into all the details of how the VCT works then I'll make a decision on whether I'll run it. |
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| TimmyA |
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Na it's simpler than that... The plug is powered under 3000rpm and power is removed above 3000rpm... I think... Pretty sure it was powered under and turned off above...
Oil flow is bypassed at low revs and runs out through the bottom hole in the phasor housing and above 3000rpm it feeds into the front of the phasor gear and pushes an inner collar turning the cam with reference to the cam... Read my build thread when I put the AU VCT head onto the ED block... The info from the genuine Ford manual is there and details of where I timed the cam in at and Troy shared some of his knowledge in there too as he worked with it a bit when he had his ED... Link is in my sig... Now I run a full AUII system so the computer drives everything... The AU VCT head with rpm switch on the ED block with an EL XR computer made no more power than the ED head with Wade 1636... I was switching the phasor with the jaycar rpm switch kit... Built it and mounted it in a jiffy box above the glovebox... Once it was programmed there was no need to access it again... It picked up on coil pulse... Only had 4 wires running to it from memory... +12V, ground, coil neg, and switched power output... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Top post on this page...
the-garage-f53/timmya-s-93-ed-falcon-t79040-420.html My memory still works... Cheers, Tim
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| XESP351 |
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That's awesome info Tim, will help a lot. Thanks for digging that up and sharing.
Although I believe my application will be a little different as i am not running ECU at all and the XE dash looms and instrument cluster are obviously quite primitive so do not have the provisions for many pins and plugs like an ED. I remember when I was researching hooking up VCT, someone on another forum said 'to hook up VCT you need one wire and an RPM switch' hahaha I think it's much more complicated than that. If it proves too hard, it'll stay disconnected, from you say it doesn't sound like I'm missing out on too much power without it. |
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| TimmyA |
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No it's that easy... You need a switched ignition power to the rpm switch... And an earth to get the module to function... Earth one wire of your solenoid... You hook your coil -very pulse into input of the module and run power out of the relay to the other wire on the solenoid... Requires no real other wiring in the car... Just need to tell your tuner that variable cam and how it works so they can program it...
Cheers, Tim
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