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| snap0964 |
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With the intermediate shaft, make sure the uni's are okay:
gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/change-top-steering-universal-joint-t84084.html Steering rack ratios: E series run 18.5:1 variable ratio, whilst the XH non XR is 21:1 constant ratio(XH XR is same as E series). So a bit more responsive steering with the E series ratio.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Feral |
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So if I get an E series (an EL would be better as it would be newer) I should get the intermediate shaft as well?
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| Feral |
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Here is the rack..
Attachment: 20091215_0759.JPG
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| sooty72 |
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Feral wrote: So if I get an E series (an EL would be better as it would be newer) I should get the intermediate shaft as well? Yes, you may not need it, but it would be better to have it just in case. 
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| Feral |
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What a crock!!
I can't get a second hand one anywhere. None of the wreckers in town have any! Looks like $400 for a recon one. Trouble is I dont have $400. Poop!!!
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| sooty72 |
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Mate, be careful when getting a reco rack, for two reasons
1 - make sure you get the same rack as your old one - take your old one in before forking over any cash. 2 - they may not except your broken rack as an exchange, you may have to pay a core charge. Could be anywhere from $50 to $250 depending on how tight they are going to be. You may have to try some more wreckers further out of town, or maybe see if anyone here has one that you can get. Bit tough with you being in FNQ tho.... Good luck. P.S. If you do go with a new/reco rack, I would replace the pump too. It's probably full of shrapnel from the rooted rack.... 
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| Feral |
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Thanks for the pump hint. Good idea.
You are right about the recon ones. Only one place will even look at it without an exchange. One lot said he would try and rebuild mine with bits he has lying around, still $400. I am sitting here pulling my hair out. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr 
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| TerroristGHIA |
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Or one from an XG.
Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| snap0964 |
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ashcook wrote: Is an AU one any good? Possibly - depends on the pinion spline as mentioned, and if AU's have a similar front track width as the EF/EL's.TerroristGHIA wrote: Or one from an XG.Brett Nope, no cigar - it's recirculating ball (steering box), not rack and pinion like he needs.Probably best he asks on here for a suitable rack. I'd be checking out the front end on that XH - might've had a big front end hit, so there could be issues, bent K frame, bent radius rods, etc. You may need to part this one out, and get another cheapy XH to transfer bits to, e.g. 5sp box, etc.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| foggy |
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Hi Feral,
Check out these guys on flea bay. EF rack $260 no exchange plus shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-Powe ... 33584db8ba |
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| Feral |
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Found one down the Burdekin. About 80ks away. He has a complete 97 XH, $190 for the rack and pump. So I am off down there about lunch time.
Mine definately took a bit hit to the front right. Bigger than I thought. I have to get it on the road. If it doesn't make all the way south, I am covered for free transport by RACQ after 100kms. Happened to me once before, they were great. If it needs work then I can take my time again. I have been under the car for the last two days and there is nothing obvious....touch wood. 
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| sooty72 |
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Good find, but you should still grab the steering shaft too. You never know...
Does your broken rack have any obvious damage / impact marks on it? Was it difficult to remove from the brackets? Were the bolts hard to get out? Did seem like it had any sort of load on it, before you undid the mounting bolts? Any of these could indicate that the k-member is damaged. Maybe try and measure some diagonals around that area, chassis rails, etc. It would be a shame to do all that work and get bounced at rwc. Good luck mate, hope you get it sorted. Cheers, Grant.
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| Feral |
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There are some scratches on the K member but none on the sump.
The rack came out easily and went back in just as easy. I gave up on the pump as I couldn't get to the belt tensioner to get it off. All back together and went for a drive today. Steering was great, light and responsive. No noise or leaks from the system. I will go over it again tomorrow just in case. Cross your fingers for the road worthy next week. Only thing is when centred the steering points to the right a bit. I am hoping the alignment will fix that. 
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| Feral |
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Well,
I re read the road worthy report and suddenly had to do the front bearings! I have decided to get them check aat the same time as the alignment. BUT...... Went to adjust the clutch pedal....... There is a large steel plate attached to the adjustment screw...... What is this I say Had a closer look and behind the plate is a huge crack!!!!!! Pulled it off and I don't now how that happened. The plate seems to have been made specially to hold the adjustment screw in. Which is broken as well. Measured the pedal 136mm. Close enough, dont touch it, worry about after it is registered. Clutch works fine. One week to departure 
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| Feral |
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OH yeh,
Went out to this s place last week. XH parts everywhere. {anels engines, gearboxes. Currently wrecking an XR, he is going to put the front on his Outback. Good thing I left the cheque book at home! Thoug I am going back out there next week. He has a full set of 15 inch outback rims with my name on them!!
_________________ A dog, a bike, a Ute |
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