I think you'll need to have the primary cable coming through the floor on the outside of that subframe, not the inside - see Mark's pics.

Re the foam padding that is now disintegrating when you just look at it, I used some foam from Clarke Rubber. Only cost a few dollars for a piece and I just used a texta and drew out the shapes I needed and cut it out with a sharp pair of scissors.

Some silastic served as an adhesive and it was all done.

Cheers
BenJ

Thanks for the tips guys. Will do...

I'm at work atm, so will be back into it next Friday.

Been thinking how I don't want to really chop my rare XH XR8 loom to bits while hiding it, as well as planning ahead for the dash swap.

Was considering looking for the NL/DL wreck, and using the complete engine loom from it as well - that was I'm not fussed about cutting the loom to bits/extending sections etc.

Snap, you may be the best person for advice on the matter, but would a NF/DF loom be more benificial than a NL/DL? I would assume NL/DL as I have a dizzy

I am thinking I could utilise everything on the fairlane loom minus the ABS. I have airbag already so hopefully that will be ok. The other question - can I just plug my 7TAA ECU into the fairlane loom (and unplug the auto box section of the wiring?)?

Thanks in advance

Both V8 looms are dizzy anyway. The L stuff is better - thermofan wiring, SSPS, Bosch 5.3 ABS.
Should be able to - the NL loom will better suit the new dash also. Opens the options - high series BEM, cluster, etc.
Everyone has their view on ABS, but it mightn't be a bad addition - helped on my ute.

Ok, I didn't realise that! So all other EF V8s are coil pack? I remember you mentioning to someone the EL BEM operates slightly different to the XH (EF) one; in regards to dome light? Maybe something else as well?



Yes, that's what I was thinking. As long as it all fires up first go! What about deleting the auto loom, can you just uplug it (and use my manual ECU)?

ABS would be nice, but my front rotors wont suit (DBA, but will change to aftermarket later). The rears would have, but stupid me cut the ABS wires off (the diff had been swapped at some point in its life with an ABS model).

I really like my centre console, being black and matching the seats etc. No a fan of the EL style.

What would be my trick to making the bottom of the dash (the bit that connects to console) look neat? I am asuming there's an attachment used with bench seats? I doubt I'll find one...

Ray, I read through your topics last night about your ute...!!

You are a MASTER!! Love your XH!!!

You're thinking about 4L. EB-EL 5L are all dizzy. AU is the only coil pack equipped 5L.

My mistake... Must be drunk or something. Yes, you're right!

Thanks for the Kudos - they can be a nice rig because most of the E series stuff fits.
Dunno, I did make an adaptor to run an EF BEM in my EL wagon - after training smartlock, everything did work - except the dome light - had to add battery power to the EL battery saver line to fix that. The other was an all LED interior lights fitting - when you close all doors, the EL LEDS would dim and stay on - XH's all went out, so in the EL I retained a std globe in the key illum to fix it.
Should be fine - I think there was only a prob with torque truncation running a manual with the auto computer, if you remove the TCM.
The pulse rings will be on the axles if it is LSD, just need to add sensors - the sensor attaching wiring is in the tray and goes up to the dash. Fronts will need the uprights with the drilled holes - and you can add tone wheels to the discs. I'd suggest the late EF/EL Bosch 5.3 ABS - used up to BA.
Probably have to use the EF/EL console section and graft it on - just like Johnny_FX ?? did.

Quick update…

I asked one of my good mates if he could bring his MIG over and help me weld up some of the many useless holes in my bay. He was pretty keen, as he just bought a new CIGWELD 725i MIG. What an awesome bit of kit it was! When money permits I’d definitely look at something like that – he picked it up for around $1000. It did everything so nicely, and the welding was done within an hour or so.

The cleaning up of the welds is continuing…. My Dremel is my new favourite thing atm!! Awesome for those hard to reach welds, especially with the remote head on it. Anyway, heres some pics:

Before shots –



Pete, and his new MIG!



Passenger side done (I’m keeping my air con, so some holes & brackets will remain)


I got rid of the relay block for the thermos. They will be hidden in guards


The common broken clutch hole. I was using a plate. This weld looks very messy as it is, but I don’t think it will break anytime soon. Pete thought it was funny I had to clean that up after he went home…




Completed (minus cleanup)




An old VK door…
Useful for one thing… Bit of panel to cover my bigger holes. Although I’m not too keen knowing I have commodore parts on my ute (minus my VZ T56 gear knob!)


Had a go at cleaning this up. Couldn’t get to it with the flapper…. Dremel loved it. Will do a little more on it, but don’t wanna go too far through on the thin stuff. Contemplating not using my plate that was made and just using this hole now when I re attach the clutch cable.


A few holes complete, some half done. Etch primer once they’re complete to stop the rust


Welded the spare holes along here. Contemplating using body filler to make it look uniform, and not dip down (if you get me)


Called it a night, this is where it stands now




Upon advice from my mate Pete, and my painter; we will not be welding plates in over the bigger holes. Too much F%&^ing around with panels warping etc, getting them flat after….So I will be cutting appropriate size panels (from the VK door!!), and will stick behind the bigger holes using panel bond.

After it cures, I will fill with fibreglass body filler, then after curing, sand back. After that, body filler, sand….then prime.

This method with be much quicker, and easier – and you won’t even see the difference. Once I get to that stage I’ll post pics.

Dropping the engine off tomorrow morning to Streetbuilt for some gasket changes, new oil pump and it will all be painted up for me. Once that’s done, I’ll be chipping away at this…^^^

Saturday morning dropped the engine off to Streetbuilt Racing (with the help of the trusty ‘white knight’). The guys will fit my new oil pump, new water pump, all new gaskets (minus heads), bead blast the lower manifold & timing cover & accessory brackets. Engine will be painted black, and throw a new rear main seal in… I think that’s it??...





Anyway, I continued grinding away Saturday. Almost finished the bay, but couldn’t finish it today as I had to go pick up a new dash!

It was almost an hour and a half from my joint, but it was too gooder deal to pass up. I forgot to take a pick pre-removal, but I’m sure you all know what a NL Fairlane dash looks like. I also took the entire wiring loom from the car. I can see some of my hair is going to seriously fall out over the next few weeks…

Some of the loom has been cut, but the seller managed to track down most of the bits that were cut, minus one bit. I cut the ABS loom off near the module in the front passenger side, as I couldn’t figure out how to remove the plug!! I won’t be running ABS anyway. I also took the steering column, so I don’t have to F%$# with the key barrel and smartlock. Also took the entire doors, all complete with the chrome trim These will be fitted at a later date, though.

The whole process of removing it all took MUCH, MUCH longer than I anticipated. I can’t believe the difference in stuff they cram into these cars, even compared to the XH. The XH loom looks pretty damn basic sitting next to this fairlane one. Anyway, heres some pics










One of the bits that was cut, easy enough to re join



This one confuses me. There is no plug for this, we didn’t notice it earlier today. Any ideas what the hell this is for?? It’s located near thermo wiring, passenger side



ABS, I cut this off. Hopefully it won’t cause car to not start… :/



These are more cut ones… easy to fix




I had a quick look at the difference in pedal boxes. They look almost identical, minus the bracket on top. The XH one is removable, and the NL one is welded on. I figure I have to options here, buy a manual E-series one from the wreckers, or cut my XH bracket down so it looks the same… Thoughts??






The next bit that could be a mission is mounting the centre part of the dash. You can see how the NL one mounts on the floor from the pics above ^^^

This is the current XH one. It looks as if the bolts on the floor are further back, then the bracket mounts to them. I am wondering if I should have cut the bracket from the NL and weld it onto my floor? Anyone done this/know for sure?



Incase you are all wondering why the hell I would go to so much effort, I actually saw this photo on ford mods (“tapeworm” ). It was a thread with people showing off their dash (link: ford-interior-f14/spraying-dash-in-ef-mont-t109871-15.html). After seeing how well it came out with vinyl dye in black, I had to do it!! The black should go nicely with my BA seats too

Remember that with the EF Dash, you dont have easy access to Demister vents at the front. Although the Ef/EL is easier than using an EB/D one. You'll need some trick work.
Amazing all the places they hide stuff in thos dash's hey. Did you get all of the harnesses? - in the NL theres one mounted on the inside of the firewall across the top. carries a lot of Auto TCM stuff, but also carries your O2 sensors, ABS Sensors, and thermo fan wiring.

Your going to need to modify the heater box slightly too - just to move the Servo on top further out. It doesnt fit in as it stands (there isnt as much height as an e-series)

I started with an NC Dash - and gave up because the air routing with the demister got too hard. I wish Id started with an EL one now - much, much easier.

Are you changing the handbrake over to EF stuff? - if you are, then just dont bolt the arm from the pedal box to the centre of the floor in, and bolt an EB or EF one in (I think EF - theyre higher from memory) as its needed to bolt the dash into. You should have the clearance you need. Im not 100% sure you can swap the pedal boxes : my XF has a half-XF, half NC one in it, but the EF/L and XH had the same firewall. im just not sure on the length, and the Pedals were different in (at least XF and XG) compared to the e series so you may have some impact in height and location

Will be interested to see how this pans out

Ive attached a pic of relocated stepper for XF below. Your also going to need to modify the Vent flap - the E series has three positions (Floor, Demist, and both) and the XF/G has only two (Floor/Demist). I mounted the e series motor to the XF vent where it would fit.



Nigel

I wonder if it's worth while you have everything out in the engine bay to throw in an AU K frame and steering rack - if you look at Phantom's Toxic wagon - he has done it - plenty pics too.

Just opens you up to brake upgrades - twinpot fronts, etc.
Might be a better option than the $$$ for an RBS, RBM, etc upgrade to the E series uprights.

I think with the power you're going for, might be a good companion.

Thanks for your help again, Nigel.

Understood about the demister. Unsure how I am going to do it yet. Was thinking about looking for some suitable flex pipe from bunnings or something...and bodging something to make it half decent

I took all the harnesses. No problem regarding the TCM. I'll ditch that, but leave the wiring.

I did test fit the heater box today (pics to come soon). You are indeed correct. I will try move it further out like you did. If you do this, does it foul on anything else?


I have changed the handbrake over to EL already. Can you please re explain about what you said -

"if you are, then just dont bolt the arm from the pedal box to the centre of the floor in, and bolt an EB or EF one in (I think EF - theyre higher from memory) as its needed to bolt the dash into. You should have the clearance you need. "

Sorry not too sure what you mean here. I compared the 2 pedal boxes. The XH one is identical, minus the top bracket. The XH has the bracket that is removable, and extends along. I can cut it down to make it the same as the EL one (but I'd prefer not to cut it, and find a manual pedal box!)

When you say I need to modify the vent flap, can I just leave it the way it is, so I can have demister and floor/face at same time?

Hi Ray,

Thanks for the heads up. I had a quick read through his thread today. Man, he is dedicated!! A great idea, but I think I'll leave it as for this one...

I have enough headaches atm trying to figure out the wiring + the rest!!