Ok, haven't got much time to update, so I'll just post this:



SUCCESS!! (.....so far!!). Applied power, no smoke (woohoo), fuel pump primes (spat fuel everywhere), smart lock was flashing (due to new key barrel, left for 60mins - the BCM has now relearned and its GOOD to GO!!), interior light works/dims, door ajar switches all work (fuel door says its open, so I will just short those 2 wires together), all lights work (headlights/indicators etc), a few bulbs are out on the instrument cluster - but can see whats happening with a torch - will fix that next week.

BEST OF ALL.... Climate control!! Blend motor door is working correctly, demister works beautifully!! MUCH, MUCH better than I ever hoped for!! Obviously I can't change from demister without the engine running, but so far so good!!

Very pleased and relieved atm!! I'll sleep well tonight!! Will update properly tomorrow!

Well done Mate - great effort.

You'll need a 180 ohm resistor to show it's closed - otherwise, it will flap.


Mine too - the lower mounting thread hole in the wheel arch is there in the XH's.
I think the falcon electric aerials have an overrun unit, never had mast problems - funny the VT - VZ commodores strip the lower toothed end of the unit - then the aerial doesn't raise properly.

Yeah, I ended up stripping the Sunload sensor out of that plastic case to make it fit.

That fascia - trip, CC, switch fascia, etc are begging for a woodgrain finish IMO.
Good news is you can achieve a pretty good result using those el cheapo 'Export' enamel paints.

Thanks Snap Appreciate it, as well as the help I have gotten from you so far too

Np, didn't realise the fuel door was also 180ohm. Thought it was just an open/close reed switch :/


Yeah, I thought about woodgrain, but due to my XF leather seats and momo wheel I decided against the theme. Will try the all black them atm.

I've been using a satin black paint from 'Forch' in WA. The guy that painted the engine bay swears by it. It honestly sticks to anything, and is dry in about 3 minutes. Its shiits ALL over the supercheap variant (I tried it when this ran out once). I highly recoomend Forch paints!!

So yesterday I didn’t have too much time cos I was busy…so tried to get to a point where I could connect the battery and test the dash etc. Started by putting the sound deadening/underlay in from the fairlane. Meanwhile, also painting other bits that needed to be black; centre console etc.





I had some left over dynamat from a few years back, so added some extra deadening to the floor. More-so to stop the heat from the exhaust. On long trips the floor used to get quite hot from the exhaust.





Tried to move the carpet around to suit. I will probably have to reorder new carpet down the track. Because this carpet was cut (by me) to suit the XH tunnel, now the carpet has to go over the top of the EL console support as well – and there isn’t much to play with. Will make do with what I got for now.




Next was the big moment… screwing the terminal leads onto the battery. No big sparks…A good sign!! *Phew*

So sat in the car and played with everything I could; lights (all good, minus a blown bulb in my driver headlight), indicators, tail lights, fuel pump, fuel sender works etc. The rapid flashing smart lock light was going at first – due to me running my XH key barrel with the fairlane BCM. 1 hour in the KOEO position and it was reset to my key barrel. As already mentioned, there’s a couple of blown bulbs on the instrument cluster – but it all seems good. Air bag light comes on, turns off (good sign), door ajar switches work a treat (rear doors say closed thanks to the 180ohm resisters). Electric mirrors also good.

A few pics…

Climate control! As mentioned, stoked about how well it works. I can’t believe I was going to forget about the demister all together at one point. Cant wait to give it some vacuum to test the rest of it.






That’s it for now. Just have to sort the fuel door switch, tidy the rear loom (left it apart in case some of the lights/fuel pump etc didn’t work). Need to wire in the water/meth injection controller inside glove box (wires are run, just needs splicing), gauges need to be installed (hoping to fit 3 down on console under stereo unit/ash tray area), then hopefully I can put seats back in. Not going to bother with the stereo at this point in time. All the wiring is there, but more concerned with having the engine running.

A few bits and pieces to do in the engine bay, and it will be sent off to Streetbuilt Racing around the end of the month to bolt on the blower/finish some minor bits and the most important part - the tune!! – (with any luck) *touch wood*!!

So I ordered one of these from Summit last night. I didn't want to run the monster tach in this build, (I only had it previously cos I wanted a shift light - altho it did add a fair amount of 'wank factor' ). Toyed with running an RPM controller and seperate light, but this just seemed simpler...:/ I'll be sitting this on top of the steering column.

Does anyone know if I should be able to use the standard tach signal wire from the cluster, or diagnostic plug? The MSD install manual says to use the signal from the Digital 6 box or run a GMR pickup (inductive sensor on a plug lead). Not keen on running a wire to the MSD if I can use a perfectly good signal from the ECU... I can't find any confirmation of this on the net...

No sure what kind of signal you need. There is a tach signal at the diagnostics plug which is buffered - would that work?

Can't confirm through anything I've found on the net...

I did use that wire for the autometer. All is says on MSD is it's a 'digital shift light' and NOT connect to negative side of the coil...

It says use signal from an aftermarket ecu or MSD Ignition box

From MSD instructions

"The Shift Light installs easily with the GMR Pickup or through the tach output terminal of an MSD Ignition Control or
aftermarket ECU. It will accept a trigger signal rated from 0-24 volt amplitude. Never connect the Green Wire directly to
the coil negative terminal.
If an ignition control or aftermarket ECU are not being used, the GMR pickup must be connected."

the signal under dash at diag connector is an equiv to tach signal of aftermarket ecu.

Interesting. Yeah I didn't think it was a direct line from the negative terminal of coil... just worried about blowing up a new expensive MSD device

I did run extra wires down each side of ute just in case things like this happened, but would prefer to use that wire if I could

This build reads like a great novel that never ends. My hat is off to you and really appreciate the attention to detail in your build.

I have an XD ute here that is getting very frightened when I inherit it off Mum(ditched the 302/347W for a 351W a couple of months ago and 2 tonne springs in the rear - can cart a tank in the tray!!)and the inspiration on your pages will be a huge help.

Unfortunately, I have two rebuilds underway ATM in a mini and a Moke(both with S/C 1018cc donks) so time will have to tell with the poor XD.

Keep up the brilliant work - this will be the longest sticky on Fordmods!!!!

Hooroo

Nice shift light, always cool to get new toys in the mail isn't it?

The quality of this build blows me away!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Thanks guys, I appreciate it!!

Wicked thread m8!! Are you going to change your cluster for a manual 1? I couldn't help but notice the drive selector light.

This thread has given me a lot of helpfully info as I am currently rebuilding my first project..!

the high series cluster was only in auto.