iv been looking at buying that ute. Would make a great work car. If i buy it il let you know. Aslo wicked ute, love what your doing with it

I had it working but was trying to use an eb dash. The ef one looks way easier
There is more clearance

Cut the demisters from the (spare) xd to xh dash. They can be held up by the 5 screws across the dash top
Cut the dash back so the air will make it out of the demisters. Don't forget to leave enough around the screw holes for the dash to be retained ( an xf one is a good guide)

The demister/foot selector needs to be modified with and ea to el servo so that it becomes 3 position instead of 2 for climate control
So you end up with climate control heater box, x series demister duct on side going up to cut x series's demister. You mount that then the dash comes on after
I believe the ef el dash has a lot more wire clearance too for your harness although that statement doesent really take into account the harness that runs across the firewall inside the cab

I'd love to have another go at it sometime but that would most likely involve an ecu update from eb to ef and there's a bit of work in that with the auto. I love the idea of the fairlane cluster off th df or dl and seeing as I e already got working door open wiring that part would be easy

I'd love to see detailed photos of how it looks all working

Yeah, it seems like a good buy, all the hard work is done. The XH's seem to be really holding their value!!



Thanks Nigel. I understand what you are saying...

I looked into removing the XH vents and doing that, but cutting the NL dash back to make room for the airflow makes me think there wont be enough support - and may casue rattles etc.

I did a test fit atm with the NL heater attachment off heater box, and chopped the top section off. Was going to 'plate' the top level, and use some reticulation type hose to duct the air along the top - using cable u-clamps to hold the tubing.

I'm not sure if this will provide sufficient airflow though...

It seems easier than cutting and making the XH vents work. I reckon i'll run out of room real quick with the looms behind the dash etc. it's already very tight without squeezing in more big vents?

Someone mentioned I should not worry at all, and jsut let the climate control take care of it (i.e. with air con on, the windscreen wont fog up anyway)...

Oh the windscreen will still fog up - especially on a really humid day (we get those in QLD .

The EF dash plastics are strong - much stronger than the XF Stuff. Id be fairly certain that youd get away with trimming the EF Dash, and making either the XF trims, or others fit (Or a dash mat.. he he).

I have a fully converted XF Heater box with all new Foam in the shed - and the off-set climate motor, plus the adapted vent control. It was done for an EB dash, but the motor itself and the vacuum servo are identical to the Later ones, and the thermo temp sensor in the box is also the same.

I have an EF XR8 ECU and TCM in the shed. So Im very tempted to give that another go. Just need to be sure Im keeping the Car first

Ok, been a bit slack lately – but I now have the next 6 days to work on the ute. I’d really love to have the interior back together (which would mean the engine bay loom is complete & dash installed).

It doesn’t seem like I’ve done much today, but everything seemed to take twice as long as it should have. Thought I’d concentrate on getting the passenger side loom and water/meth sorted.

Solenoid mounting (I’m installing this to stop the siphoning effect caused when running a PD blower)



Found a way to re-route the air con wires and vacuum hoses. Did some extensions where required



Made a hole here. This was a deadest mission trying to feed everything through here. Ended up having to remove everything, make hole bigger, and go again. Some nice language was being used while this was happening


Used the stock washer bottle for the ‘stealth’ look (holds about 200ml less than the supplied bottle)


Bottle installed….


Run the hoses




All done here


The vacuum hoses were a major headache. I cant remember what goes where. I tried to use photos, so I’m hoping it will work. Had to extend the hoses as well to reach into bay…All I can say is it’s going to be interesting once I go to use the climate control.

Ran the wiring for the meth pump into cab, as well as some spare wiring for ‘just in case’ down the track. Need to extend the MAF wiring to driver side – I have halted here for now – need to confirm what wire provides the 0-5v signal wire from MAF back to Water/meth controller (I think it’s pin C??). If anyone can confirm that would be great (or tell me what colour the wire is).

Once I’ve done that, I’ll finish taping up this side and then passenger side is complete.

BTW, I wish I didn’t leave it so long before continuing the wiring. Its so hard to pick up where ya left off!!

Big day today… Been at it around 14hrs. Basically completed the passenger side loom; included extending MAF wiring to driver side, re-joining the relays for thermos (it was chopped off), completed water/meth wiring, installed MSD Digital-6 and coil, re-installed air-con hoses, lower radiator hose, power steering lines & headlights.

Basically neatened everything up all over to driver side (will finish that tomorrow). Convoluted tubing is my friend atm!!

Now for pics:


MAF wiring extension




Much neater


MAF


MAF Connector with radiator overflow level sender plug


Turn this….


…into this


Had to re-arrange things 10 times to make the headlights fit




Fault finding is ganna be fun


Paint this while its out (lower radiator hose)


My ‘reward’ tonight was mounting the ignition up






Complete


Some hoses now visible. The dirty power steering hoses wreck it all!!


This is how she looks after today


Tomorrow I’ll ensure driver side loom is done; shouldn’t take too long. Will then probably replace the door looms with the NL doors (to run door ajar switches etc). Depending how well I go with that, I’ll run the power cabling to the tray for the battery….

Another day in which everything took longer than expected. Did a fair bit of wiring once again, so just took my time to ensure no mistakes (hopefully!!)

Spliced in the RH O2 sensor (which I forgot to do a few weeks back) – come in handy to look at pics I took to remember the colours! Extended the cruise control and brake boost wiring. The booster wiring will be nicely hidden under the lip in engine bay too.






Next; I needed a decent way to mount the relays and fusible links



Bunnings bracket







Works nicely, with some 100mm hose clamps



Run some earthing



Engine earth, hidden in rail







This is how it looks… complete. I also ran an extra x4 wires for down the track – or in case I’ve forgotten something??!!


Didn’t get to the doors today, so I’ll be doing that first thing tomorrow – which will involve swapping out the grommets & wiring between pillars and doors. While I’m at it, I’ll hook up the dome light sensors – the NL loom is different to XH. The XH switch has 2 contacts, the NL one has one and earths out to chassis.

Works better on this forum, its looking grouse, looking forward to seeing the finished product it'll be awesome

First thing this morning I removed the door loom from the NL doors I picked up. This allowed me to plug in my new NL loom directly into the doors without chopping cables etc, and also has the door ajar switches etc…





For some stupid reason, the wiring for the door ajar was wedged in between the window motors, so getting this one out took longer than expected



Out….



This is what I was after… I metered it out for curiosity, and found it read 3.2k ohms when open, and 180 ohm when closed (door shut). I have heard that the car will not start until the BCM sees open or shut. Useful for when I cut the back door looms off. Will just put a 180 ohm resister in each side (to stop door open lights on the instrument cluster)




I managed to break one…not happy




Next, install onto ute. I used araldite on the one I broke. Worked a treat.




Old and new




The NL holes are different spaces apart, so just adjusted accordingly…








Did the door light switch while I was at it. Then I put the LHS of dash back on and tidied up cabling and loom.




Took a break at lunch to pick up these; a genuine set of EL GT Brakes Thanks to a fellow E-series owner in Perth




Did the same with the RHS door, and tidied up loom and started mounting everything back on inc Airbag module etc




New foam from Clark Rubber




I’d been meaning to fix this since I had to cut it out a few years back – to make room for the T5z I used to have.




Bit of old plate thanks to a commonwhore door



Stickoflex and screwed down




I need the missing piece here…!! (I’ve misplaced it) – the metal bracket




The engine bay this arvo… Mounted the new (new – second hand – the diaphragm in my old one was dodgy). Pretty happy with how straight the hard lines turned out (after a bit of massaging!!). I was a bit worried while it was getting filled and painted etc – they looked very out of shape.




Need to make gearbox loom (including VDO speedo unit), and feed through the tunnel. Once I can remember how the hell to hook that up, I’ll splice the NL loom into the XH rear loom.

I have a sneaky suspicion that the NL looms differs in regards to earthing near fuel pump?? If anyone can shed light here so there’s no surprises for me please go ahead!!

Finished the gearbox loom this morning. Took a few hours, as I was trying to remember what wires were going where, and trying to remember the VDO speedo unit – as I lost the instructions.

Eventually got it sorted, and ran it nicely along the tunnel through a small grommet.

The old looms…


The gearbox loom that I cut off a few weeks back..!!??


Done:


Next I moved my attention to the battery relocation.


Jacked the ute up so I could work underneath and run the cables….


Had to remove the spare wheel, as the jack has been pissin me off since I owned the ute. It was bent for some reason (previous owner), and was near impossible to get the spare on or off.


I had a spare (removed from the ‘white knight’ sitting in the driveway!! )


…..then I saw this… I couldn’t have the rest of the ute looking nice, when it looks like this underneath!! (while I was at it, attended to some surface rust that had formed under the wheel jack – must be a common fault, as it’s obvious rust would form where it’s mounted, and the white knight was looking worse for wear when I removed it’s one)….


The rest of my day was consumed in degreasing and cleaning – then painting….basically getting high on fumes underneath the car all day. Covered in black paint and grease…. Lots of fun




Hopefully tomorrow I can actually finish the battery relocation!!

Started today by deleting the passenger rear door loom. Basically cut and shut all wires – but used 180 ohm resister on the door ajar signal wire. Used heatshrink on all ends, then taped (as I have done for any I have deleted…)



Wasn’t keen to start on the driver’s side as yet, so began on the battery relocation. Battery to be mounted in spare area behind driver seat/next to fuel tank. I wanted as much of the wiring hidden as possible. (Thanks to Jeff from Streetbuilt Racing for supplying me with the required cables )

The route chosen was battery to starter – then starter to jump point in front. Negative was done direct to front earth point on chassis rail, as well as another small loop from battery to earth in the rear. I felt like making life hard for myself, so ran the cables through the chassis rails. This was not a fun job to do by yourself!!

Starter motor cable(s)


Front common earth point


Underneath (looks nice and clean now with fresh paint!!) – running to rear via sill



Battery box is going down in that corner (over hole you can see). I was going to use a nice new ally battery holder – but it wouldn’t fit down in that gap – so I decided to use a traditional plastic box. Fits snugly.



Decided I should change out the diff centre bump stop… The Summernats road trip didn’t do this one much good. Found a new one in my driveway!! (yep, the ‘donor’ white knight with grandpa-spec suspension. I doubt it’s diff has ever seen this bumpstop)


Chopped it down a tad so the same thing doesn’t happen….straight away at least


Finished off the wiring in the front – jump point


…And this. No more wiring to do in this area!! Engine bay is pretty much just waiting for an engine now!!



I also tested the water/meth today (I probably should have done this while installing it!!). Everything seemed ok. The bottle holds plenty of water with no leaks, pump primed nicely. Initially there was a vibration being felt through the solenoid I installed (opening and shutting). I just put a rubber backing behind it – all fixed. Pump goes through the water quickly if you want it to (no nozzle attached)…all seems good to go.

Hopefully I can do the rear loom splicing tomorrow, then I can pack my soldering iron away for good!! *touch wood*

Didn’t have time to update this yesterday, as I was too busy watchin’ Queensland smash the Blues in yet another great origin series!!

I basically just spent the day splicing the front loom to the rear loom. Not much to say about it all really, other than the fact Ford are a bit retard in some ways – even following the diagram; some of the wiring can get very confusing – such as the fuel sender wire colours (yellow-Green mate) – well, there are 2 of these in the loom (1 slightly larger diameter than the other), the same goes for a few other wires.

I spent ages trying to trace some of em as I wanted to make sure I was splicing the correct ones (and the NL was cut up so hard to trace rearward…) Ended up splicing everything I knew (not much in the old XH – a few lights and a fuel pump) – and cut the rest away – ABS, levelling suspension, premium sound etc etc…

Being a bit meticulous when it comes to wiring, I just HAD to know what the ‘left over’ wires were all used for…so that’s why it took me most of the day!! While I was at it, I connected in the fuel door and sensor from the NL to my rear LH abs wires…..when I get around to it I’ll install the reed switch on my fuel access.

I also put aside wires for the old boot release and boot open sensor – I’ll use this later – probably for my tailgate, and might use the boot release to wire in one of those automatic locks for the hard cover

Anyway, some boring pics




You can see the ‘left over’ unused wires to the RH side


I was sure to add extra, and join the 2 separate earths in – as someone had mentioned earlier regarding the NL fuel pump and lighting earth in the rear…. I joined em all together, and added an extra – I’ll ground it out inside the cab. Hopefully my fuel pump will prime for me when I try it out next week or so….once dash is in

My brain was sore after all that, so I quite enjoyed the beers last night watching Qld bring home 7 in a row!! (had to rub that in again!!)

Awesome work man.

Kust a quick question, Where did you get the jump point for the front. I assume this is the final termination for the origianl wires, and the jumpers to to the battery to complete the circuit. Or am i missing something.

I too am looking at relocating my battery and was wondering how it was done

Cheers

Brett

I took jump point to mean "When my Fuuuuuly siikkkk Ute needs a quick jump start"

.. or to jump start others. Battery in tray/hidden is a PITA to get to.

This particular one I bought of Jeff, but not knowing I was going to use his - I already purchased some new ones from the states. I have em brand new in boxes if you make me an offer?!

They are purely there to jump start the car if it ever needs it (to avoid crawling around in the tray).



Like Nigel said ^^

I'm sensing some sarcasm here lol