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jumpingjak |
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{DESCRIPTION}
here is the cog and metal thing that locks the cog onto the shaft. |
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jumpingjak |
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{DESCRIPTION}
here is the bf with no housnig on the back of the gear box... There is no hole in the shaft for that metal thing to lock into and i tryed to drill a hole but no good hardend steel. |
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jumpingjak |
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{DESCRIPTION}
beacause i could not dill the hole i am going to weld it to the shaft with this stuff. |
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jumpingjak |
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{DESCRIPTION}
this welding past is realy good stuff. this cog will brake be4 it comes loose. |
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jumpingjak |
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jumpingjak |
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{DESCRIPTION}
Il put on the eb housing instead of the bf one. |
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jumpingjak |
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{DESCRIPTION}
super cheap has sales on and i got a compressor and this package here for $270 |
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jumpingjak |
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I will get sum pictures up of the bonnet and the mod im thinking of doing to that so the bonnet will close
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jumpingjak |
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{DESCRIPTION}
Just under the bonnet latch to the right the metal is pushed in. Were as on the left side it is raised out all the way past were the rubber is broken. That is were the top of the engine hits. So i was going to heat and beat all the raised part so it dose not stick out. |
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SWC |
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The Engine does not hit there, that area is over the radiator support. The rocker cover on the Barra will hit the inner cross bracing on the EB/ED Bonnet (under the hood lining). Check the bonnet in Benj's Thread.
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Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {DESCRIPTION} Just under the bonnet latch to the right the metal is pushed in. Were as on the left side it is raised out all the way past were the rubber is broken. That is were the top of the engine hits. So i was going to heat and beat all the raised part so it dose not stick out. ok 1st ... rubber is not broken. as grumps has mentioned . . . . engine cannot hit there. pull off the crap hanging on bonnet so you will see what hits betterer when ya motor is in. link for mentioned bonnet {DESCRIPTION} ... somewhere around that page |
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jumpingjak |
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ahhh ok i see what you guys mean now.. Well i guess il stick with lowering the bolt holes on the engine mounts. could i use a normal drill or will i need a drill press for this job? Aslo if you guess could help me, as i have never seen this be4 in my life, The compressor i got has a big warning sticker on the power lead that sez DO NOT USE A EXTENTION LEAD... It may cause a voltage drop and cause the compressors motor to over heat. I think that is so weired, unless the extention lead was like 50mtrs long or sumthing. the book sez its made to plug into a standared 240v 10amp power point.
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Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: ahhh ok i see what you guys mean now.. Well i guess il stick with lowering the bolt holes on the engine mounts. could i use a normal drill or will i need a drill press for this job? Aslo if you guess could help me, as i have never seen this be4 in my life, The compressor i got has a big warning sticker on the power lead that sez DO NOT USE A EXTENTION LEAD... It may cause a voltage drop and cause the compressors motor to over heat. I think that is so weired, unless the extention lead was like 50mtrs long or sumthing. the book sez its made to plug into a standared 240v 10amp power point. use either drill all tho drill press would be slightly easier. prob a 10 metre heavy duty extension would be ok?. some leads are being made cheaply so be aware of this. |
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jumpingjak |
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Il have a go with the normal drill as i dont have a drill press. Every thing i have read today also sez a good 10mtr lead will be ok.. It has been raining on and off for the past few days so havent done much but im up to taking the k.frame off the eb as soon as things dry up abit out side. I been waiting ages for this other k.frame so il probly just hire a welder and mod my1..
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SWC |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I been waiting ages for this other k.frame so il probly just hire a welder and mod my1.. Do you know what you are doing with a Welder? What is your experience level? |
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