jumpingjak wrote:
yes i totaly understand what you are saying with the saftey of the weld and i would never put a part back into my car that is not safe, even if i did the job my self. I am 1of those people who can say my job is not good enough if its not. I have done about 4days worth of utube study, haha, plus what i already know. I understand weld penetration, chasing the weld puddle vs pushing the puddle, how the 3metals get turned into a little puddle of molten metal and fuse together cool off and become one piece. but as is sed be4 i would never put bad work on my car when it come to my safety and most of all others. Its one thing to put your own self at risk but not other people.
experience really helps here too .... a lot. plus welding contaminated metal can influence your job. i have seen some of the welding jobs done at where i work .... and they
ARE crappy looking welds
. utube is great for a lot of things
jumpingjak wrote:
What would be helpfull is tips on how you did your mates k.frame,
refer grumps or checkout page 171
http://www.fordmods.com/the-garage-f53/benj-s-eb-dohc-t5-ghia-wagon-t71774-2550.htmljumpingjak wrote:
thinner metals such as exhausts and sheet metal are not easyer to weld, if you know how to set your welder they are the same as thicker. Thicker metals can use a higher volts or current to get deep penertration for the speed you move the welder, were as thinner metal you need to move realy fast or risk a hole in your job, or turn your welder down so you can move at the same speed as you were on the thicker metal.. Would that be fair to say?
i don't believe so ... but i'm not a pro welder.
jumpingjak wrote:
also with the wled paste holding the speedo cog the instructions say it can handle the heat and want crack, I also asked a few mechanics and they say it will be fine.
that question was more a query than a statement.
but who ever welds up the k-member .... is ultimately up to you ... it's your car & your choice