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| Robert_au |
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Ordered new Original ford coils for the car late last week cost $259 on ebay, as i think it was due for some. They arrived yesterday and i installed them today. Not 100% sure but i think the ones that came out were the originals P/N on them was 3r2u-12a366-AA.
the part number on the new ones 5r2u-12a366-BA. While Playing and working on the car today, i decided to reprogram my HIM module and change my ICC over to my premo unit. It might give me the incentive to pull the dash out and change the rest back there, Get it Programed in with the Green BCM and have it fully functional. Have to see what work is over easter might pluck the chicken then maybe. Quote: You need to set the protocol to 11 bit CAN, 512k. atsp6 I think is what you want. The 'a' you mentioned above leaves the ELM in auto mode and should do the same thing, but if it doesn't find 11 bit can 512, it will start looking for the PCM on other protocols. SO in this case either would work.
The HIM responds to messages with a CAN header of 733. Then you need to use a mode 3B command to program the HIM, which according to J2190 is 'write by data block'. In this case the HIM mode is block 00. And the values are: 0F - Heater only mode 55 - Manual Climate Control AA - Auto Climate Control. So setting a HIM to Manual would be: ATSP6 ATSH733 3B 00 55 (3B 00 AA) to set to Auto Air To see that this value is written correct, you do a mode 21 read of block 00. Which is simply 21 00 When you issue a command to header 733, expect to get a response message with a header of 738. SO the purpose of doing the ath1 command is to turn headers on so in the response you can see the 738 bit. Finally, if the mode 21 lookup shows the value written correctly, you may need to completely power off to have the value take effect. This may even include disconnecting the battery..... Lukeyson
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| Robert_au |
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What a event that was!
Friday i decided it was "the day" that the dash came out and the hi-series went in. That all went fairly smoothly. I couldn't get the wire for the 2nd Zone motor around the back of the heater box so was ran around the front to save cutting and shutting the loom. i found the Heater shaft difficult to remove to change over but got there. Managed to not clip the trim onto the gear selector properly  car didn't stick in drive, sports mode selected = your going to have a bad time. Result i had to change my shifter mech. I was at the same time going to change out the RHS main loom for the BF Ghia one that i have but noticed a wire missing, a different connector for the trip tonics that had the "missing wire", bit to a different location and chickened out as i didn't want to mess with that while doing everything else. So today i went to a place and managed to find on the floor of the place the connector views i was interested in looking at to do with the RHS loom (Oh how i wish i had done that last week before i changed the dash loom). In short the "missing wire" just routs different to the engine bay so ill take it to the location i need it in problem solved there.there are 2 wires to do with the acc pedal seem to have different colors and numbers but go to the same locations in the connector as BA so i don't see a issue there. Will get to the RHS loom soon have to finish making up a NAVi loom for behind the dash and put that in too. Hopefully Sooner rather than later lmao. Robert
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| Robert_au |
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Update time!
Thinking about another Ford for a daily work car! Still yet to finish the satnav loom for behind the dash, and now make up another loom for the gauges i have been adding. at this point i have added Boost and oil temp, i have oil pressure on the way. I done a oil change few weekends ago and i used one of those sand-witch plates that go between the block and the oil filter so that i could add the sensors for the oil temp and pressure gauges. Personally i don't like the s**t thing its had a small leak since i installed it. It may be as simple as i done the filter to tight and caused it myself or the fact that its probably just a s**t idea for the sensors. plan is to get rid of the sand-witch plate and roll with the adapter fittings that go in the side of the block where the existing sensors are. Question? one of the sensors in the Oil gallery is 1/4-18 NPT which is oil pressure i think, it has the turbo line off it also, but along side that there is another sensor that looks to be in the gallery as well Is that the OIl temp one, Whats the thread on that because it Doesn't look like the 1/4-18 thread it looks bigger Diameter to me. I think i have a stuck open thermostat as first thing in the morning the temp barely gets off cold. but in the afternoon it gets to 1/4 where it always has sat I have a new thermostat, o-ring gasket and coolant so will change it all over and hopefully fix it. There will hopefully be a things happen in the next few weeks, Really need the diff bushes fixed the RHS main support is damaged. Also thinking about while the cradle is out asking how much more it would be to fit a Tru track locker center fitted in my housing, the diff center is available on ebay with gears for about $1600 thought and opinions here Please I'm planing on some coil overs, new inter cooler and a flash tuner to extract a little more power in the next few weeks so could get picture heavy again.
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| Robert_au |
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Bit of a update time.
I ended up getting another ford for my daily, its a 96 ef futura, Now named Hayley. Its got a few little minor problems, like the airbag light flashing code 42, t The body is a little rough but can live with that, after all its only the work bus.  Back to BA Turns out the thermostat was stuck open so i changed that over and done a coolant change at the same time. It was at this time that the O-ring on the heater pipe off the back of the water pump wanted to sh*& its self, so had coolant dripping back out of there.  got the required parts and fixed that (new O-Ring and water pump gasket) problem solved.  Over the last few months i have fitted up a New HDI cooler kit. It came with all the mounting brackets (which didn't line up to much at all) so i made my own brackets  it alco came with all the piping, going back to the factory X over.  From here i decided to to relocate the throttle body mostly for looks and easier access to the Plugs, IT may be pointless on a stock engine but my car my rules. That had me making up some custom Cold side piping from the Cooler to the TB, this is what i came up with. The bits  Pipe that comes up under my headlight  Cold side assembled, I still have to add my BOV, port and a port for the boost sensor  After getting cold side worked out and happy i also done some custom Hot side piping, worked off pictures of a process west/plazamaman systems Hot side bits, all in 2.5". if it turns out too big for the hot side i'll reduce it back to 2-2 1/4  Hot side assembled  view of cold side, i might make minor adjustments and change out the 45deg bend for a 90 and change the straight silicone for a 90 also, just to give better clearance for the fog light  I have also fitted up My under battery CAI. I'm not sure if i like it and think maybe i should have relocated my battery to there. Front view all installed  i'm still slowly working off the list of things to do, i need to let the funds build again now to spend up some more  .Robert
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| frankieh |
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That looks great, some nice work there. Glad there are a few of us B series Turbo folks doing stuff on Fordmods.
I'm removing my inter-cooler altogether.. I have LPG liquid injection so it's less useful anyway as the gas gets very cold as it comes out of the injectors.. but just in case, I got a small(ish) water to air inter-cooler that will go right above the turbo.. so turn the turbo's housing around so it's outputting upwards, straight into the inter-cooler and from the inter-cooler, the foot long bit of pipe straight onto the SS inductions Throttle body. I'm actually doing that pipe in 3.5-4 inch.. but there is so much less volume in what is left compared to what is there now that it should still spool way faster. Later on I'm going to get my TIG out and cut down (or just internally baffle) a spare intake manifold so it removes most of the volume from the old butterflys that is just wasted space that the turbo needs to fill on the XR6T. I've been eyeing off the one of those 4 inch GT3540 high flow intake housings too, as I've got plans for the intake side of the turbo too.... Battery->boot and change airbox sides basically. I still have an EL and an EF in the yard too.. projects.. I have too many.
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| Robert_au |
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Ive looked at the housings on ebay and thought about it too, may end up getting front and rear housing and getting the rear ported, and just build a new slightly improved stock turbo.
Should have included in the update above that i have ended up getting my hands on a BF FPV cluster for The car, need to have a look at it on the right sideways glance and have a few settings changed before i put it the car nothing major I have also got myself a set of memory mirrors of a Fairlane and fitted them up, there not working yet as i don't have the drivers loom changed to fit the grizzly module. I have also got hold of a set of factory reverse sensors in silver (cars purple ) to hook to the module i have.The poor girl is going to be looking a little multi colored for a little while i think. Tonight i may have also got my hands on a GT rear wing on the cheap, not sure if genuine or not will update further on this if it happens Rob
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| Robert_au |
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Hi modders
I managed to pick up one of these bad boys cheap. 4" inlet anti surge housing 2.5" outlet  Won the bid at $100 plus postNext plan is to get a new rear housing and send that away for porting ready to get a new CHRA. Then have to work out how I'm hooking the 4" intake to the under battery CAI Rob
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| frankieh |
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You buggar!... you were competing against me on that one.. I forgot to set a snipe though..
 I'll give you 150 for it! |
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| frankieh |
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a mate of mine just bought a whole XR6T conversion including a new turbo and all looms and what appears to be a rebuilt engine for a grand.. and while pulling it out, I turned the turbo housing around so it points upwards as a test for my car.. turns out it's super easy.. loosen a few bolts and spin it..
So the next spare half day I get, I'm spinning mine around and plumbing it straight onto my SS inductions throttle body.. the LPG injection can keep it cool enough until I get my water to air in place.. and it also means I can rip my front intercooler out and put the water to air and oil cooler down in the air flow... but it would all work much better if the outlet size on the turbo and the inlet size on the throttle body were closer in size.
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| Robert_au |
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frankieh wrote: You buggar!... you were competing against me on that one.. I forgot to set a snipe though.. I'll give you 150 for it! Hmm tempting to sell it but Na, I can guarantee you i wasn't bidding against you on this one, I was the only bidder surprisingly and only had a max bid of 120 i think i went. i guess you were dealing with Lasernode when you were trying. Theres one Right now going with no bids with 3Hrs left (you probs wont see this early enough). Link to housing http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331689154000 I'd check him often, no sooner had i got mine and he had another one up (wonder how much he is paying for them). So seems that he always puts them up like it. I was thinking of buying one out right from his store. link to his profile http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/lasernode?_t ... 7675.l2559 frankieh wrote: a mate of mine just bought a whole XR6T conversion including a new turbo and all looms and what appears to be a rebuilt engine for a grand.. and while pulling it out, I turned the turbo housing around so it points upwards as a test for my car.. turns out it's super easy.. loosen a few bolts and spin it.. Good score, iF i pop the engine short term i think i may go for a late BF engine if i cant get a atomic one. i'm still not sure if i want to build one myself or Just get it preBuilt. The latter sounds easier to me. Spinning it does sound easy, but i thought that they also had a dowl pin to stop that, having said that there's no pins on the new housing i got. frankieh wrote: So the next spare half day I get, I'm spinning mine around and plumbing it straight onto my SS inductions throttle body.. the LPG injection can keep it cool enough until I get my water to air in place.. and it also means I can rip my front intercooler out and put the water to air and oil cooler down in the air flow... but it would all work much better if the outlet size on the turbo and the inlet size on the throttle body were closer in size. That LPG injection you have Rocks. high octane? and cool charges. i have been thinking about oil coolers but not sure that i need them. if i do ill end up sticking one in behind the foglight between cooler piping somewhere i think. yeah there would be a fair difference between the turbo outlet and TB inlet 2" or so hey? i'm thinking to hookup to my under battery CAI with the new housing silicone reducer and ally pipe. failing that for lack of space or whatever, i guess ill have to relocate the battery and put the filter in its place. Rob
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| frankieh |
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Robert_au wrote: frankieh wrote: You buggar!... you were competing against me on that one.. I forgot to set a snipe though.. I'll give you 150 for it! Hmm tempting to sell it but Na, I can guarantee you i wasn't bidding against you on this one, I was the only bidder surprisingly and only had a max bid of 120 i think i went. i guess you were dealing with Lasernode when you were trying. Theres one Right now going with no bids with 3Hrs left (you probs wont see this early enough). Link to housing http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331689154000 I'd check him often, no sooner had i got mine and he had another one up (wonder how much he is paying for them). So seems that he always puts them up like it. I was thinking of buying one out right from his store. link to his profile http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/lasernode?_t ... 7675.l2559 frankieh wrote: a mate of mine just bought a whole XR6T conversion including a new turbo and all looms and what appears to be a rebuilt engine for a grand.. and while pulling it out, I turned the turbo housing around so it points upwards as a test for my car.. turns out it's super easy.. loosen a few bolts and spin it.. Good score, iF i pop the engine short term i think i may go for a late BF engine if i cant get a atomic one. i'm still not sure if i want to build one myself or Just get it preBuilt. The latter sounds easier to me. Spinning it does sound easy, but i thought that they also had a dowl pin to stop that, having said that there's no pins on the new housing i got. frankieh wrote: So the next spare half day I get, I'm spinning mine around and plumbing it straight onto my SS inductions throttle body.. the LPG injection can keep it cool enough until I get my water to air in place.. and it also means I can rip my front intercooler out and put the water to air and oil cooler down in the air flow... but it would all work much better if the outlet size on the turbo and the inlet size on the throttle body were closer in size. That LPG injection you have Rocks. high octane? and cool charges. i have been thinking about oil coolers but not sure that i need them. if i do ill end up sticking one in behind the foglight between cooler piping somewhere i think. yeah there would be a fair difference between the turbo outlet and TB inlet 2" or so hey? i'm thinking to hookup to my under battery CAI with the new housing silicone reducer and ally pipe. failing that for lack of space or whatever, i guess ill have to relocate the battery and put the filter in its place. Rob Thanks for the phone call mr Rob, I'm impressed that you found me. (was I the first call?) I have procured one for 100 bucks too (yay!)... so as soon as it arrives my output is going to be pointed straight upwards. very exciting.. since I now have a 3.5 inch stainless exhaust and a 4 inch stainless dump and a modded waste gate.. I'm getting close to having my perfect system from the exhaust valves onwards. Just have to get it all in the car. Yes, the JTG gas system rocks.. (cost me 5k so I was really hoping it would) LPG is around 110 octane and if you can get it into the engine as a liquid so it doesn't displace oxygen, it's awesome stuff... even better if you use the freezing effect to cool the hot turbo air. It's responsible for about 70 percent of my power boost all by itself. (once the engine was tuned to take advantage of it.) more advanced timing and a load of extra boost is possible with liquid injected LPG... and as an added benefit my car is very clean to run. (about $30 a week to drive about 45km a day in significant traffic to and from work though the city.) It's also never backfired.. the oil I just changed out 6 months late ((very expensive penrite 5w-60) I have an oil cooler am running LPG and have the best oil I could find.. I figured I could extend the interval a little, and I'm building a new engine at any rate (see below).) anyway, the oil I finally drained out.. looked very much like it did when I put it in. In other news I bought a cheap 2008 BF engine the other day and I just found a post that says all BF engines after 06/06 have the same rods as the egas.. (typhoon rods) if so, I have to decide if I really need to go the whole forged pistons and scat rods or just put some decent pistons on the typhoon rods and balance everything.. can't decide now.. but I suppose the forged/scat way is 2000 dollars more expensive.. and if I go that route, the clutch and box and diff will probably not handle the power anyway and I'll have to convert to a ZF and a beeffed up diff. I've already got Zero guage cable and a big battery box for when it's time to remote locate the battery.... I will have no choice as I want to make some thing that fits the factory airbox lid on it on the drivers side.. |
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| Robert_au |
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frankieh wrote: Thanks for the phone call mr Rob, I'm impressed that you found me. (was I the first call?) I have procured one for 100 bucks too (yay!)... so as soon as it arrives my output is going to be pointed straight upwards. very exciting.. since I now have a 3.5 inch stainless exhaust and a 4 inch stainless dump and a modded waste gate.. I'm getting close to having my perfect system from the exhaust valves onwards. Just have to get it all in the car. Yes, the JTG gas system rocks.. (cost me 5k so I was really hoping it would) LPG is around 110 octane and if you can get it into the engine as a liquid so it doesn't displace oxygen, it's awesome stuff... even better if you use the freezing effect to cool the hot turbo air. It's responsible for about 70 percent of my power boost all by itself. (once the engine was tuned to take advantage of it.) more advanced timing and a load of extra boost is possible with liquid injected LPG... and as an added benefit my car is very clean to run. (about $30 a week to drive about 45km a day in significant traffic to and from work though the city.) It's also never backfired.. the oil I just changed out 6 months late ((very expensive penrite 5w-60) I have an oil cooler am running LPG and have the best oil I could find.. I figured I could extend the interval a little, and I'm building a new engine at any rate (see below).) anyway, the oil I finally drained out.. looked very much like it did when I put it in. In other news I bought a cheap 2008 BF engine the other day and I just found a post that says all BF engines after 06/06 have the same rods as the egas.. (typhoon rods) if so, I have to decide if I really need to go the whole forged pistons and scat rods or just put some decent pistons on the typhoon rods and balance everything.. can't decide now.. but I suppose the forged/scat way is 2000 dollars more expensive.. and if I go that route, the clutch and box and diff will probably not handle the power anyway and I'll have to convert to a ZF and a beeffed up diff. I've already got Zero gauge cable and a big battery box for when it's time to remote locate the battery.... I will have no choice as I want to make some thing that fits the factory airbox lid on it on the drivers side.. Your welcome on the phone call, you were indeed the first call i made. Found your name on your website searched google and found a line to WA uni that had you in it and a link back to your website . congrats on getting the turbo housing for the 100, glad someone that deserves it got it. wondering what his CHRA's are like i might get one from him soon as mine seems to have a little shaft play. If/ when i do the battery I'm just going to drop it down in the bumper i think, will likely make up my own kit to do it it cant be that hard and saves me 500$. Spent my day off today removing the Rear bumper and fitting my reverse sensors all went to plan with the cutting drilling and filing of the holes to make the holders fit. the time came to put the sensors in and got 3 sensor failure's. after clearing them i was only left with a Left inner sensor short to battery. Ok so removed that sensor swapped it for the left outer (to confirm sensor or wiring fault) Reset the faults had 2 faults come up to do with the left sensors cleared them and was only left with the Left outer sensor failure (the one i swapped around) so i guess that confirms a Faulty dead sensor. I will look at getting a set then keep the remaining good ones as spares. Things are coming along slowly but getting there in the long run. i still have a few things sitting in storage that need fitting like earls kit and new fuel pump assy Rob
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| Robert_au |
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https://nerdlyf.wordpress.com/2013/07/1 ... ring-info/
Link so i can find it again Car pc to ICC
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| frankieh |
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Robert_au wrote: https://nerdlyf.wordpress.com/2013/07/14/connecting-a-computer-to-the-icc-wiring-info/ Link so i can find it again Car pc to ICC Lol, I have that exact same adapter in my car, I wish I'd found that page first though as the first one I tried was rubbish and I wasted a hundred bucks. |
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| Robert_au |
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i have looked at them a few times, i'm sure theres one out there somewhere that takes 5-12v input saving on having a voltage converter (although i do have a couple of them laying around). Not sure if i really want or need a computer in the car. IF i do thinking on one of those WISE thin clients if that can be made to do the job. Sux Blowing coin on stuff that dont work
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