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| frankieh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i have looked at them a few times, i'm sure theres one out there somewhere that takes 5-12v input saving on having a voltage converter (although i do have a couple of them laying around). Not sure if i really want or need a computer in the car. IF i do thinking on one of those WISE thin clients if that can be made to do the job. Sux Blowing coin on stuff that dont work Oh, maybe mine is different then as I'm not running a voltage converter. Of course you want a PC in your car.. how could you not? It's mint. Here is mine from when I first did it in june last year. {DESCRIPTION} What's not to love? |
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| Robert_au |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: i have looked at them a few times, i'm sure theres one out there somewhere that takes 5-12v input saving on having a voltage converter (although i do have a couple of them laying around). Not sure if i really want or need a computer in the car. IF i do thinking on one of those WISE thin clients if that can be made to do the job. Sux Blowing coin on stuff that dont work Oh, maybe mine is different then as I'm not running a voltage converter. Of course you want a PC in your car.. how could you not? It's mint. Here is mine from when I first did it in june last year. {DESCRIPTION} What's not to love? mmm must admit that is pretty mint will have to put more thought into it with hooking it up with the factory satnav and the Reverse cam i have added all doable. Recieved the rest of the gear i need to fit my premium sound today cost me 95 for the 4 speakers 2 tweeters sub amp and all the trims. postage was killer for it at 150. Hopefully the weekend will be cool to put it all in the car and get it out the lounge room that looks more like fords spare parts shelf.
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| Robert_au |
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Today seems to be the day the dash comes out again, to install my sat nav looms back there and change my after market gauge wiring around (re rout it out the LHS kick panel with a plug not through the fire wall). also while the dash is out i'm changing the RHS H loom to the BF one to get my memory seat and mirrors working.
Its also maybe a good time to change over to my BF column (not that my BA one is broken) Might update more later today. Not likely to have any photo's this time round until i'm done Rob
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| Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Its also maybe a good time to change over to my BF column (not that my BA one is broken) Might update more later today. Not likely to have any photo's this time round until i'm done Rob good luck with dash etc ... what's different re columns?? cheers |
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| Robert_au |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Its also maybe a good time to change over to my BF column (not that my BA one is broken) Might update more later today. Not likely to have any photo's this time round until i'm done Rob good luck with dash etc ... what's different re columns?? cheers Thanks for the good luck lol. The BF column used a flat style of key and apparently they have stronger internals on the ignition switch mechanism. Started at 11:30 am and had it all back together and running at 7 with about 2 hrs of breaks. I had a few little problems arise on re assembly, Lost some power somewhere to the ICC and Cluster screens, Car still started and ran, but had nothing showing except heaps of lights, and no tach or fuel level on the cluster. Started checking fuses all fuses checked out fine, look up at the cluster and the screen showing is showing the odo, started the car and all was working fine so not sure what went on but happy it fixed its self. RHS H loom changed changed for the BF one, after pillaging one of the sport shift wires to relocate it to the BA's location. while putting all the looms back in i also dropped in the navi one that runs the RHS of the car to the boot. That still needs to hook up (likely tomorrows project) in the boot, under the seat and under the icc and then that's done and dusted. Seat base is changed over to the memory seat base and all working so i finally have working door mirrors again too. Rob
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| frankieh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Its also maybe a good time to change over to my BF column (not that my BA one is broken) Might update more later today. Not likely to have any photo's this time round until i'm done Rob good luck with dash etc ... what's different re columns?? cheers Thanks for the good luck lol. The BF column used a flat style of key and apparently they have stronger internals on the ignition switch mechanism. Started at 11:30 am and had it all back together and running at 7 with about 2 hrs of breaks. I had a few little problems arise on re assembly, Lost some power somewhere to the ICC and Cluster screens, Car still started and ran, but had nothing showing except heaps of lights, and no tach or fuel level on the cluster. Started checking fuses all fuses checked out fine, look up at the cluster and the screen showing is showing the odo, started the car and all was working fine so not sure what went on but happy it fixed its self. RHS H loom changed changed for the BF one, after pillaging one of the sport shift wires to relocate it to the BA's location. while putting all the looms back in i also dropped in the navi one that runs the RHS of the car to the boot. That still needs to hook up (likely tomorrows project) in the boot, under the seat and under the icc and then that's done and dusted. Seat base is changed over to the memory seat base and all working so i finally have working door mirrors again too. Rob Hi Guys, I repair BA/BF/SY/SX columns by the dozens and I can tell you that there is no difference between BA and BF columns other than the key barrel being different. (and not inter-changeable) The BF key key barrel is the same as the FG unit, so I create custom looms that allow FG columns to go into B series falcons (I have one in mine actually) but to put one in a BA you have to replace all the locks with BF/FG versions and do a PATS reset. There is no benefit in putting a BF column in a BA other than the better key and the fact that it's much harder to drill out a BF key barrel because the lock peg is rectangular not round. When swapping barrels, be really careful when you pull out the barrel that the steering is not in the steering lock position, (to be save put the square steering shaft in the diamond position before you do it) If it locks when the barrel is out, the mechanism moves forward and a pin drops in behind it stopping you from putting the barrel back in the column. I can undo it but its a pig of a job. (it's supposed to stop people pulling out the barrel and starting the car with a screwdriver. Apparently Bosch had not heard of PATS when they designed these things?) cheers Frank |
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| Robert_au |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hi Guys, I repair BA/BF/SY/SX columns by the dozens and I can tell you that there is no difference between BA and BF columns other than the key barrel being different. (and not inter-changeable) The BF key key barrel is the same as the FG unit, so I create custom looms that allow FG columns to go into B series falcons (I have one in mine actually) but to put one in a BA you have to replace all the locks with BF/FG versions and do a PATS reset. There is no benefit in putting a BF column in a BA other than the better key and the fact that it's much harder to drill out a BF key barrel because the lock peg is rectangular not round. When swapping barrels, be really careful when you pull out the barrel that the steering is not in the steering lock position, (to be save put the square steering shaft in the diamond position before you do it) If it locks when the barrel is out, the mechanism moves forward and a pin drops in behind it stopping you from putting the barrel back in the column. I can undo it but its a pig of a job. (it's supposed to stop people pulling out the barrel and starting the car with a screwdriver. Apparently Bosch had not heard of PATS when they designed these things?) cheers Frank How was your Christmas Frank? Interesting to know. i knew about the not interchangeable barrel bit, and the bit about that pin dropping and locking it permanently so to speak. Worth Noting that The BA Barrels fit ignitions right back to EF maybe even before that (i'm using a BA barrel in my ef ignition right now! Whats different with the looms/Plugs on the FG ones I'm curious now i managed to pick up a BF column and 2 keys, door lock with a body module and PCM cheapish to play with on the bench lol. So that column ended up in the my BA on the weekend. What do i need a pats reset for? is that to code the BF keys? I'd have to say NOT if you think outside the Box and have 2 original non cloned keys!  Rob
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is there any difference between the BA & BF wiring??
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| Robert_au |
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{USERNAME} wrote: is there any difference between the BA & BF wiring?? There is a few differences with the pins on the 2 white connectors on the dash from memory there is a few other minor differences in the H looms mostly just one of the wires from sport shift> most of the engine bay looms are different in some way too
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ok Thanks
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{USERNAME} wrote: ok Thanks no worries think back on page 2 i showed some of the differences in the dash plugs from memory.
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| frankieh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Hi Guys, I repair BA/BF/SY/SX columns by the dozens and I can tell you that there is no difference between BA and BF columns other than the key barrel being different. (and not inter-changeable) The BF key key barrel is the same as the FG unit, so I create custom looms that allow FG columns to go into B series falcons (I have one in mine actually) but to put one in a BA you have to replace all the locks with BF/FG versions and do a PATS reset. There is no benefit in putting a BF column in a BA other than the better key and the fact that it's much harder to drill out a BF key barrel because the lock peg is rectangular not round. When swapping barrels, be really careful when you pull out the barrel that the steering is not in the steering lock position, (to be save put the square steering shaft in the diamond position before you do it) If it locks when the barrel is out, the mechanism moves forward and a pin drops in behind it stopping you from putting the barrel back in the column. I can undo it but its a pig of a job. (it's supposed to stop people pulling out the barrel and starting the car with a screwdriver. Apparently Bosch had not heard of PATS when they designed these things?) cheers Frank How was your Christmas Frank? Interesting to know. i knew about the not interchangeable barrel bit, and the bit about that pin dropping and locking it permanently so to speak. Worth Noting that The BA Barrels fit ignitions right back to EF maybe even before that (i'm using a BA barrel in my ef ignition right now! Whats different with the looms/Plugs on the FG ones I'm curious now i managed to pick up a BF column and 2 keys, door lock with a body module and PCM cheapish to play with on the bench lol. So that column ended up in the my BA on the weekend. What do i need a pats reset for? is that to code the BF keys? I'd have to say NOT if you think outside the Box and have 2 original non cloned keys! Rob You didn't need PATS reset because you got the barrel and PCM/BEM together as a matched set. If you had gotten the PCM from somewhere other than with the keys it would have needed a PATS reset. I have a VCM and did one on my car this morning. I have managed to do lots of PATS resets with one key.. I have a switch I use that allows me to stick any key in the reader for the second key and I have an old BA key that has the shank snapped off, so I stick that in the ring when it asks for the second key. I've also noticed that if you let it time out when it asks for the second key, it usually accepts the first one anyway. handy that.  Regarding the FG, it doesn't have a separate ignition key loom, the dash loom actually comes out and plugs into the back of the barrel. Ford have adapter looms, (because some very late BF's had hybrid FG/BF columns and they needed the loom adapters) I've had cause to strip a few FG's lately so getting to know them quite well. |
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| Robert_au |
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{USERNAME} wrote: You didn't need PATS reset because you got the barrel and PCM/BEM together as a matched set. If you had gotten the PCM from somewhere other than with the keys it would have needed a PATS reset. I have a VCM and did one on my car this morning. I have managed to do lots of PATS resets with one key.. I have a switch I use that allows me to stick any key in the reader for the second key and I have an old BA key that has the shank snapped off, so I stick that in the ring when it asks for the second key. I've also noticed that if you let it time out when it asks for the second key, it usually accepts the first one anyway. handy that. Regarding the FG, it doesn't have a separate ignition key loom, the dash loom actually comes out and plugs into the back of the barrel. Ford have adapter looms, (because some very late BF's had hybrid FG/BF columns and they needed the loom adapters) I've had cause to strip a few FG's lately so getting to know them quite well. Interesting to know about the ignition key loom, i should check out the mk3 wagon i have access too and see whats that has lol. I didnt Use the PCM or BCM that came with the column. Only the column. i'm still using my original BCM and PCM. i used a 2nd reader and my original 2 keys (used one key to operate the switch and the other in the reader) to code in the 2 BF keys. all coded in fine starts and works.
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| Robert_au |
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long time no update here, so lazy it should be done haha. little bit has happened lately on the car not allot though. will try get update up over the weekend!
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| Robert_au |
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ok Update time!
I finally got all me stuff together loom wise to install my factory satnav over Christmas (ended up purchasing another unit with all the looms i needed off ebay, Glad i did as the first unit i picked up was FUBAR! and didnt work. it also worked out easier than making my own looms for behind the dash obviously. so it was a dash out and tie all the wires in behind the dash nice and neat. NOTE(including my aux line, more on this later). while the car was in bits with everything out i decided to put in the RHS main body loom to support the Memory seat base, after re routing 1 wire for the sport shift mode (ba one of the wires grey with red stripe returned to the RHS of the dash, BF H looms i have used returned it to the LHS). i SHOULD have while i was modding the loom also added the wire out of my original loom to the new one for a electric passenger seat base but didnt, ended up kicking myself over that and adding it in a month later, after finding the seat base and trim i needed. While i had the dash out i added a custom loom of 7 core trailer wire to run all my after market gauge power and signal wires. will have 2 gauges up top of the icc and another 3 mounted underneath. I hah the Car back together in the same day all starting and running before 7 pm even after starting at 11 am haha! While;e testing the Satnav i found out i had one wire wired to the wrong wire along side the drivers seat where i was grabbing from  . i managed to tap into one of the seat memory lines Not the Park light line next to it in the loom. Why they put 2 brown wires right next to each other will never know. its still one thing im yet to fix, i just have that wire disconnected for now Memory seat goodness, to go with the memory mirrors and pedal box {DESCRIPTION} Fast forward another month or 2 and i got the asl converter to put my reverse camera that i have installed into the factory screen. as a bonus i noticed that it can have a #rd input into it giving me a little half din DVD player hidden in the glove box. converter {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} I refused to pay the $ for a duel AUX input that i could make myself for 1/3 of the cost so i made this up {DESCRIPTION} went to install it in the car and some ^&%* has zip tied his aux connector up in the wires of the dash    Lucky i was able to access the plug i needed with the fuse panel out of the car. Think that's enough in this one another to follow  Rob
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