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Power Window Conversion
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Firstly, Thankyou to Ugly Igly for pointing out the misprint with the Grey/Yellow Wiring on the Main Power Window Switch.
This Error has now been corrected !.
This Document describes the process of converting standard window Winding Modules, to Power Window Winders, as Fitted to Fairmont, Fairlane, LTD, and some Futura Models.
This also includes
Changing Door trims to remove the standard winder handles and holes,
Adding and Running Cabling from the Doors, to the Interior Centre console Power Window Switches,
Adding the Centre Console Switches and door Window switches,
Wiring the Power Window Switches,
Removing the Manual Window Winders, and Mounting the new Power winders.
You will also need the following tools to carry out the conversion,
10mm Socket set, with an extension to unbolt the window from the winder,
A Large Phillips head screwdriver,
A 5mm Drill bit (Metal), and a Drill,
A Soldering Iron, with Solder
Also you will need the following Parts for the Conversion,
2 Door Power Window Conversion
A 2 Window Power Window Centre Console Switch,
1 x Left Hand Side Front Power Window Motor Winder,
1 x Right Hand Side Front Power Window Motor Winder,
6 Large Bolts and nuts to bolt the New Winder in place,
4m of Electrical cable (must be able to handle 10Amps !)
Electrical Tape,
8 x Door Nut Rivet M6 (Available from Ford for $0.80 each) - Part Number V820134S
You will also require power window door trims, to remove the Hole made for the manual window winder, in the original Trims.
Power Window Trims are available from some Futura models, and all Fairmont, Fairlane, and LTD models.
4 Door Power Window Conversion
A 4 Window Power Window Centre Console Switch,
1 x Left Hand Side Front Power Window Motor Winder,
1 x Right Hand Side Front Power Window Motor Winder,
1 x Left Hand Side Rear Power Window Motor Winder,
1 x Right Hand Side Rear Power Window Motor Winder,
12 Large Bolts and nuts to bolt the New Winders in place,
8m of Electrical cable (must be able to handle 10Amps !)
Electrical Tape,
8 x Door Rivet Nuts (Available from Ford for $0.80 each)
You will also require power window door trims, to remove the Hole made for the manual window winder, in the original Trims.
Power Window Trims are available from some Futura models, and all Fairmont, Fairlane, and LTD models.
An estimated cost for the 2 Door power window conversion is around $450, to $600, depending on Door trims, new or used parts to be used, etc.
The cost for the 4 door conversion is estimated to be around $800-$1000, for 4 Electric Winders, Centre console switches, Door Trims, and other bits and pieces.
The amount of time required Estimated at around a full day for each door to be converted.
Finally, this is not a simple modification !
It is recommended that only experienced persons attempt this modification, as it requires some difficult wrenching, wiring, and a lot of time and patience !
Having said this, those that have successfully completed this modification have said that it was well worth the required time, effort, and money !
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Removing the manual Window Winders |
WARNING : This section should not be attempted unless you are prepared to fit the Power Window Winder at the same time !
Removing the Manual Winder will mean that the Window will not be supported, and consequently will not be able to be closed until a new winder is in place !
Now with that warning out of the way, lets get down to business,
Obviously, you will need to remove the door trim, to get to the Manual winder mechanism.
Information for this can be found at Adding Door Lamps to the Door Trims Technical document.
Once the door trims have been removed, you will need to remove three large rivets that hold the Manual Winder Mechanism in place.
To remove these rivets, you will need the 5mm drill bit, and a drill.
Simply Drill out the Centre of the Rivet, which will then make the rivet easy to remove.
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Once these rivets have been removed, it will be possible to push the winder rod out of its mounting hole, by pushing it inside the Door.
Once this has been completed, you will need to remove the 3 Bolts that hold the Window Guide on to the Door.
See the above figure for the position of these Bolts.
Also, remember that it is possible once these bolts have been removed, that the window will become loose, and may drop !
Take extra precaution when carrying out this step, especially if you have tinted windows, as it is possible that you may scratch the window tinting film whilst carrying out these steps !
Once these bolts have been removed, you will notice that the guide assembly, window rod, and window will all move !
Finally, you will need to disconnect the Window from the Winder Assembly.
The Window is held on to the Assembly with 2 further Bolts, and a small bracket.
WARNING : Take extra care with this step, as the window will drop when these bolts are removed.
It would be a good idea to hold the glass in place when removing the last bolt from the Winder Assembly !
Once all the bolts have been removed, carefully remove the Winder assembly from the bottom of the door, and carefully lower the glass so as it sits inside the Door Frame.
NOTE : It is a good idea while you have the winder Assembly outside of the door, to lubricate the Rubber Window Guides with some Dry Lubricant, and to also Lubricate the New Window Winder Assembly with some grease.
This will assist with the power window operation when the conversion has been completed.
Here is the Manual Window Winder Assembly removed from the Door Skin.
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Fitting the Power Window Motor and Winder Assembly |
The next step is pretty much the reversal of the above section.
This will take approximately 30 Minutes to complete, and compared to above process, is fairly easy but finicky to complete.
You will notice that the New Power Window Regulator uses exactly the same mounting points as the Original Manual Window Winder.
This means that you will not need to drill any further holes, nor alter anything to fit the new Winder.
Firstly, lift the window so as it is in the Fully upright position.
Next, feed the Window Guide inside the Door Frame, through the Bottom Hole in the Door Frame.
Next align the Window Guide up with the mounting holes, and attach the Glass to the Winder.
Once the Glass has been attached, Bolt the Window Winder guide in place, using the 3 bolts from the previous winder.
Finally, the Winder Motor will need to be bolted in place.
Align the Power Window Motor, with the 3 Rivet Holes where the previous rivets were removed.
Next, Place a bolt in each hole, and attempt to screw a nut on to the end of the Bolt, inside the door trim.
WARNING : Do not use Bolts longer than 2cm, as these will foul (Touch) the Glass when the window is wound down !
Finally, tighten all the Bolts, and nuts.
Once everything is in place, you can test the Power Window Operation by placing power to the 2 Power Window Motor Wires.
(Power to the Yellow/Black Line and Negative to the Yellow/Green Line will wind the Window Downwards),
(Power to the Yellow/Green Line and Negative to the Yellow/Black Line will wind the Window Upwards),
Ensure that the Power window operates smoothly, without getting stuck, obstructed, or making excessive noise.
If there is a problem, check to see all the guides are clean, and free of obstructions, and check that the Motor is Operating OK.
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Running Cabling into the Vehicle Cabin |
To get the Power Winder Motors to work from the Centre Console Switches, you will need to run an Extra 2 Wires (3 for Back Doors), from the Power Window Motor, to the Centre Console.
You will also need to run a Power Line from the Ignition Switch, to the Centre Console Power Window Switches.
Finally, you will need to run a Ground wire from somewhere, to the Centre Console.
This part will take approximately around 1 to 2 Hours per door to undertake.
Unfortunately, you will need to run very thick, high current cabling, so it is recommended that you use thin flexible cabling (If possible figure 8 wiring for the Front Doors), so as it is easy to run through the Rubber Door Conduit (The Tube that the factory wiring is run through from the Door, to the Cabin).
Remember, the Cabling that you run must be able to handle at Least 10 Amps !
Running Cabling For the Front Doors
Firstly, you will need to disconnect the Rubber Conduit from both the door trim, and the vehicle chassis.
The easiest way to do this is to take your time, and use a Flat headed screwdriver, to get between the metal, and the Rubber Grommet that fits within the Door Trim/Chassis hole.
Again, take your time with this, as you do not wish to damage the Rubber, nor do you wish to scratch the Paintwork on your door !
Obviously, you will not be able to remove the Rubber conduit completely, as there will be wiring running through it.
Basically try and get yourself enough room so as you can begin running the cabling through the Tube.
You will need enough cabling to run about 1/2 a meter inside the door trim, and enough Cabling in inside the Car Cabin to run to the Centre Console. (Around 2 metres is a safe bet)
Once the cabling has been run though the Conduit, feed the cable through the Metal Hole in the Door, and run the Cabling down the inside of the Door Frame, making sure that the wiring clears the Window Guides !
(The Last thing that you want is not being able to wind the windows down !)
Once this has been completed, you will need to run the cabling in to the cabin, to the Centre Console.
Something that makes this job easier is to unscrew the door open Switch (Do not disconnect the wiring though !).
Next feed the Door Lamp cabling through the Metal hole used for the Rubber conduit, and using the Door switch Hole and the Door Switch wiring as a guide, feed the wiring out from behind the Kick panel.
Finally, you will need to remove the Front Seats, and Run the Cabling underneath the Carpet, down to the Centre Console, where the Power Window Switches are located.
Also, be careful not to run the Cabling underneath the Front Seat Tracks, as the Pressure of these on the wiring could damage the wiring.
Running Cabling For the Back Doors
The Technique for running the Cabling for the Back doors is much the same as the Front Doors.
Again, you will need to remove the Front Seats !
This is due to the Fact that the factory wiring Loom comes out from the Back doors, underneath the Carpet, below the front Seatbelt Reels.
This is right down at the Floor pan level inside the cabin, so its a good idea to complete all the wiring at the same time, that way you do not waste time removing and fitting the Front seats each time !
Once the Wiring is inside the cabin, you can then run the cabling underneath the carpet, to the front of the car, and connect the wiring to Centre Console Power Window Switches
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Making the Electrical Connections |
Please Note : If you have front Power Windows Factory Fitted, then you will already have the Power Window Connector, complete with wires connected to the Centre Console Plug.
Although this plug has been fitted by the factory, it will still be necessary for you to splice the new wiring that you have run to the Back Doors, to the existing wiring.
This is due to the factory Wiring being terminated somewhere inside the vehicles cabin, and not being available for use !
If you do not have any Factory fitted power windows, then you will either need to get the electrical connector for the Centre Console Power Window Switches, or you will need to connect the wiring to the Switches, via spade connectors.
Also, if you do not have Electrical connectors for the rear power window switches, then again, you will need to make the necessary connections by using spade connectors.
Centre Console Connector Wiring
If you are converting the 2 front windows, then you will need to connect 6 Wires Only.
This Includes
Power for the Window Motors,
Ground for the Window Motors,
4 Wires for the two Front Power Window Motors.
For a Four Window Conversion, then you will need to wire up 12 Wires.
These wires are for the Following,
Power for the Window Motors,
Ground for the Window Motors,
Child Lock Power Output for the Rear Window Switches, (1 Line to each back Door)
8 Wires for the 4 Power Window Motors.
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| Wire Colour |
Description |
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| Grey / Yellow |
Power to the Back Power Window Switches - (Power is Switched On/Off by Child Lock Switch) |
| Yellow / Dark Blue |
Passenger Side, Back Window, Down Line - Connect to the Back Window Switch - Console Down Line |
| Red / Dark Blue |
Passenger Side, Back Window, Up Line - Connect to the Back Window Switch - Console Up Line |
| Grey / Yellow (Middle) |
Power Supply From the Fuse Block, to the Power Window Switches. (40Amps) |
| Black |
Connect to Ground |
| Yellow / Violet |
Drivers Side, Back Window, Down Line - Connect to the Back Window Switch - Console Down Line |
| Red / Dark Green |
Drivers Side, Back Window, Up Line - Connect to the Back Window Switch - Console Up Line |
| Red / Black |
Passenger Side Front Power Window Up Line - Connect to Power Window Motor (+V Wind Up) |
| Yellow / Black |
Passenger Side Front Power Window Down Line - Connect to Power Window Motor (+V Wind Down) |
| Red |
Drivers Side Front Power Window Up Line - Connect to Power Window Motor (+V Wind Up) |
| Yellow |
Drivers Side Front Power Window Down Line - Connect to Power Window Motor (+V Wind Down) |
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Back Door Power Window Switches
You will need to make 5 Connections to the Back Door Power window switches for each door.
This includes 3 wires from the Centre Console Power Window Switches, and 2 Wires from the Doors Power Window Motor.
The Following Diagram will give you some idea of what wires go where,
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Changing the Door Trims |
Once the power window winders have been fitted, you will notice that although the original door trims will still fit, there will be a hole present for the original Manual window winder.
The only way to remove this hole is to replace the Original door trims with ones from a Power Window Model.
You will also notice that door trims from power window models have an extended arm rest and handle, front map pockets, and depending on the model the new door trims have been removed from, you may also have wood trimmings, Leather, suede, carpeted map pockets, chrome door handles, sueded and padded armrests, rear door map pockets, and door lamps.
Unfortunately, you will need to add 2 Screw Rivet Bolts to use Power Window Armrests in place.
The Door Nut Rivets (M6) are available from Ford Spare Parts Dealers, for around $0.80ea - Part Number V820134S
Please Note : You will require 2 screw rivets per door.
Below is a picture of what the screw Rivet looks like, unfitted.
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At first glance, it may not be apparent how the Ford Screw Rivets are held in to place inside the door trim.
This is because you will need to expand the rivets.
Normally there is a special tool that is used to expand the rivets inside the door trim, but because the tool costs $$$$$$, I have used an alternative method to fit the Rivets.
1. Find a Nut and bolt, that has approximately 5mm Shank, along with this you will need either 2 wrenches, or shifters that can be used on the Bolt and Nut.
2. Using the Nut and Bolt, fit the Screw Rivet on to the Bolt, and Tighten the Nut 1 turn.
See the picture below for more information.
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3. The above would have expanded the Screw Rivet enough so as it will fit snugly inside the Door Skin.
Please Note : You may require a hammer, to tap the Rivet in to place.
If the Rivet is still loose, you can use the above method, with the rivet inside the Door skin, so as the rivet expands snugly in its hole !
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Finally, you will need to remove the Standard Armrest Bracket, as this bracket is not used on the Power Window Door Trims.
This Bracket is Pop Riveted on to the Door skin, using the same type of pop rivets that were used to hole the Window Winder Assembly in place.
Below is a picture of the bracket that you will need to remove.
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Just like the Removal of the Window Winder Rivets, you can use a 5mm Drill Bit, and a Drill, and simply drill out the middle of the Rivet.
Once all this has been completed, you can then fit the New Door trim, and enjoy your New Power Windows !
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