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 Power Window Install
Fitting Power Windows onto an XH/XG series Longreach Falcon Ute

This document describes the installation of Power Windows to an XG/H series Longreach. This entails dismantling the motors and servicing them, removing the existing XG/H manual regulators from the doors, fitting the motors and motor arms to existing XG/H manual regulators if necessary, modifying existing E series power window switches, and wiring the system up

    Tools required:
  • Screwdriver Set

  • soldering iron & solder

  • Instrument screwdrivers

  • sidecutters

  • spanners various

  • hammer and drift

  • wire stripper or a suitable blade, e.g. Stanley knife

  • pliers

  • a Fluoro or suitable light source

  • multimeter

  • angle grinder with cutting disc (required if modifying regulators)

    Materials required:
  • Sandpaper or crocus paper

  • Metho or suitable cleaning fluid

    Parts required:
  • 2 x XD/E/F series power window motors (LH & RH) and LH & RH front door regulators

  • 1 x power window circuit breaker (30A)

  • 2 x (or 4 x)power window switches

  • 8 x mounting bolts (M6 size) + washers + nuts

  • std 10amp PVC wire or similar

  • cable ties

  • electrical tape

    Approximate time required:
  • 2.0 hrs for motor servicing

  • 3.5 hrs for regulator modding/removal/install to door, etc

  • 4.0 hrs for wiring

Dismantling and servicing the Motors:
This is advisable if your motors are second hand units.

Step 1:
Remove the circlip and shim washer from the gear assy.

Step 2:
Remove the gearbox cover assy. See Fig 1. below


Fig 1. Motor assembly with the gear box cover removed.

Step 3:
Remove the gear assy. You should now the motor dismantled as per Fig 2. Ensure the white step down gear has the three retainers (arrowed). If not, you’ll need to fashion up replacements – this stops the gear assy slipping once the window is wound up. 3 pieces of wood dowel with 3 flats works well. Ensure this is sorted as it will save you hassles later.


Fig 2. Gear Assembly retainers.

Step 4:
Remove the white step down gear.

Step 5:
Remove the sealant around the electrical loom grommet and remove the metal P clip and screw.

Step 6:
Remove the two bolts holding the magnet assy & magnet cover.

Step 7:
Carefully withdraw the motor armature, and the magnet assy and cover. CAUTION: the tip of the armature(worm gear end) has a ball bearing, this should be put aside, along with the ball bearing housed in the armature base (magnet end). The magnet end ball bearing is the larger of the two. Be careful not to damage the brushes when removing the armature.

Step 8:
Remove the brush tension springs. Remove the two Phillips head or hex screws holding the brush assy and cct board to the case.

Step 9:
Carefully withdraw the brush assy and circuit board, just enough the inspect the underside for corrosion and deteriorated wiring. You may need to feed the red and black wires through to assist this. See Fig 3. below.


Fig 3. Brush and circuit board assy, showing the overload protector.

Step 10:
Using a multimeter, check the continuity of the positive and negative wires to their respective brushes. This tests the overload protector as well, which sits on the underside of the brush assy and circuit board.

Step 11:
Refit the brush assy and circuit board.

Step 12:
Inspect all items for corrosion and deterioration. Clean where necessary.

Step 13:
Lightly sand the armature commutator with 1200 wet & dry, or better, with crocus paper if available.

Step 14:
Using a multimeter, check continuity between opposite commutator segments.

Step 15:
Insert the larger ball bearing in the magnet assy base – a drinking straw is perfect for this.

Step 16:
Install the brush tension springs, along with the brushes – they’ll need to be withdrawn in their holders for the armature fitment – paddle pop sticks inserted between the brush pigtail and the brush holder will achieve this.

Step 17:
Smear the upper armature shaft and worm assy with grease, and install into the main case. Remove the paddle pop sticks before pushing the armature fully in.

Step 18:
Install the gasket on the magnet case, lightly smear the armature lower shaft with grease, and install in the magnet assy and case.

Step 19:
Install the two magnet case retaining screws.

Step 20:
Unscrew the upper armature preload adjusting screw from the case, smear the upper ball bearing with grease and install to the upper armature. Refit the Upper armature preload adjusting screw.

Step 21:
Lubricate and install the white step down gear – use it as a guide to adjusting the upper armature preload screw. Give the armature a very slight end play. Don’t overtighten the preload, as this will cause the armature to bind.

Step 22:
Lubricate and install the gear assy with the three retainers.

Step 23:
Install the washer and circlip.

Step 24:
Install the gasket and cover assy.

Step 25:
Install the wiring metal P clip and screw.

Step 26:
Test the motor operation.

Step 4:
Remove the white step down gear.

Dismantling and servicing the Motors:
Step 1:
Remove the retaining screw and withdraw the exterior mirror inner cover (RH door). Disconnect the connector from the switch.

Step 2:
Remove the screw caps, 2 phillips head screws, and remove the pull handle.

Step 3:
Carefully prise off the inner door handle surround.

Step 4:
Remove the window winder handle.

Step 5:
Remove the snipper button.

Step 6:
Remove the door trim by carefully levering the trim from the door frame.

Step 7:
Remove the clear plastic sealing sheet – the adhesive can be cut with a Stanley knife blade.

Step 8:
Drill out the 4 mounting rivets, see Fig 4. below. You’ll find the easiest way for this is to drill a number of holes around the centre of the rivet, and break the swarf off with pliers. The centre can then be tapped through with a hammer and drift. Alternatively, the usual way is to knock out the centre and drill the centre section out. CAUTION: The rivets are the main support for the regulator, and as such, the regulator could drop unexpectedly, so provide some support for the window when removing the rivets. A long screwdriver inserted through the inner door skin through the cavity to the outer skin can be used.


Fig 4. XG/H window regulator mounting rivets.

Step 9:
While supporting the window, manoeuvre the regulator around to slide the regulator arms out of their respective rails. Remove the regulator.


Fig 5. XG/H regulator(top) and XF Fairmont Ghia regulator (LH side shown).

Step 10:
If the replacement regulator is inferior in condition to the existing manual regulator, you can swap winding arms over (step 11-14.)

Step 11:
Remove the regulator tension spring from both regulators. Be careful as it could do damage when the spring uncoils.

Step 12:
With an angle grinder and cutting disc, grind away the peening on the centre pivot on both regulators. See Fig 6. & 7.


Fig 6.


Fig 7.

Step 13:
Tap the centre pivots out with a hammer and drift.

Step 14:
Swap winding arms over, clean and relubricate all working parts, insert the centre pivot.

Step 15:
Repeen the centre pivot – a small damaged socket is good for this, otherwise a ball pein hammer on the edges followed by some centre pops will do the job. See Fig. 8. Peen the areas at right angles to the original peening. Ensure the underside of the centre pivot is supported adequately.


Fig 8.

Step 16:
The bottom piece of the XG/H regulator will need to be cut off with an angle grinder – see Fig 9.


Fig 9.

Step 17:
Install the window motor to the regulator arm with the three 7mm hex screws.

Step 18:
Reinstall the tension spring, ensure there is enough tension – doesn’t need to be much, but needs to be there at full up or down positions.

Step 19:
Your regulator is ready to fit to the door. See Fig 10.


Fig 10. XG/H regulator with window motor and arm fitted (LH side shown).

Refitting the XG/H Regulator:

Step 1:
Fit the two front mounting bolts to the regulator – you’ll need to apply power to the motor, and wind it to full up and down positions.

Step 2:
Wind the motor to mid position.

Step 3:
Fit the regulator to the door, installing the upper arms to the window lower channel mount. This is a bit tricky, as you’ll need to support the window as well.

Step 4:
Fit the regulator lower arm to it’s door mounting rail – it will be easier if the mounting rail retaining nuts are loosened.

Step 5:
Align the regulator two front mounting bolts with the door holes, install the mounting nuts and the two rear mounting bolts and nuts.

Step 6:
Applying power to the winder motor run the window up and down to check correct range of movement and operation.

Step 7:
Tighten all mounting nuts and bolts.

Step 8:
Cut the excess off the 4 mounting bolts, so they don’t foul the door trim when it’s put back on.

Step 9:
Once wiring is completed, Refit the inner plastic, door trim and attaching hardware – installation is a reversal of the removal described earlier.

Wiring up the Power Windows:

This next section describes how to wire up 2 switches per door, but for single switches per window, the individual switch wiring is the same. Fig 11. shows the switch rear and the respective contacts between the terminals during the different switch positions. Fig 12. shows the connections for a single switch setup – the motor connections may need to be swapped to obtain correct movement up & down. Fig 13. shows a dual switch setup.

Fig 11. Rear view of switch showing switch position contact.


Fig 12. Single switch setup.


Fig 13. Dual switch setup.

There is a vacant Power window fuse location, it already has a power line fitted, you can solder your power feed line to one terminal of an E series 30A circuit breaker, feed it through the fuse hole, and plug in your circuit breaker into the fuse panel, see Fig 14. For a single switch fitted to each door, you can use the doorlock actuator power to supply 12v, the wiring is then kept within the door. For console switches only, two wires need to be fed into each door, you should use fuse panel power to supply 12v. For dual switches per door, use fuse panel/door actuator panel power. Ensure you fit wiring connectors so that components can be removed easily, e.g. consoles, window motors, etc. Circuit planning is essential. All power sources mentioned are constant 12v. For best looks and functionality, you’ll probably find the dual switch system to be the best option.


Fig 14. Circuit breaker install.

Fig 15 – 18. show an example switch modification and install.

Fig 15. Door switch install.


Fig 16. Console switch install.


Fig 17. Vinyl paint finish.


Fig 18. Final installation.

FAQ's:

Q: Are LH and RH motors the same?
A: The motor assy itself is the same, but the gear housing is different. LH & RH rear motors can also be used, but not the rear regulators.

Q: Do I need to find new door trims – Will EA – EL trims fit. ?
A: You can fit switches to the existing door trims where the winder used to sit – you only have around 30mm clearance, so the terminals will need to be shortened. The only replacement door trims that will fit are XD/E/F/G/H.

Q: What about fitting an EA-ED centre console with the switches already fitted?
A: You can fit these, and it’s personal preference – I preferred fitting EF/EL switches to match the trim better.

Q: Weren’t Power Windows an option in XG/XH utes ?
A: No, it was never offered in XG or XH Series I or II, or even XR versions or splash utes, unfortunately. But you can self option

Q: One of my motors is a bit noisy when raising the window?
A: Check your window channel adjustment, make sure the window raises and lowers without binding. You may find the motor armature is not up to par – with the motor removed, apply power and put some load on the gearing, if the noise appears, replace the armature. It is handy when you buy your motors to have a spare.

Q: Can’t you fit E series type motors and regulators?
A: No, it’s the easiest to stick with X series motors and regs. If you service your motors properly and ensure the gear assy has minimal slippage as well as ensuring the window adjustment is correct, you’ll find your setup will work well, and have nearly as much refinement as the later E series units. The setup won’t have the cable troubles of the later units, plus with a two point lift, you should find that window binding/jamming will be minimal.

Q: I’ve wired in a 2 switch setup – the door switch raises the window when it should be lowering?
A: Swap the motor wire connections and retest.

Q: I’ve wired in a 2 switch setup – the door switch works okay – the console switch raises the window when it should be lowering?
A: Swap the connections of the two wires that go from the console switch to the door switch.

 
 Document Summary
 
Document description: Fitting Power Windows onto an XH/XG series Longreach Falcon Ute
Document written by: snap0964 on 17 2006>, Copyright © 2006 snap0964, all rights reserved.
Document revised: 17 2006 - Revision 1.0
Document views: 13288 since 17 2006



 

 

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